Fujifilm X-A1 (11.6 oz./330g with battery and card, ) and XF 16-50mm OIS (58mm filter), about $599 for both. enlarge. The X-A1 comes in black or blue, complete with the new 16-50mm lens, for $599 total. This free website's biggest source of support is when you use these links, especially these directly to it at Adorama and at Amazon, when you get anything, regardless of the country in which you live. Thanks for helping me help you! Ken.
Top, Fujifilm X-A1
Back, Fujifilm X-A1.
The X-A1 is a fantastic small camera at a give-away price. If you want a small camera with great image quality for people and low-light pictures, this could be the one.
The Fujifilm X-A1 is a cheaper version of the Fuji X-Pro1 and Fuji X-E1 because it deletes any kind of viewfinder. It has no optical finder like the X-Pro1 and has no electronic finder as do both the X-Pro1 and X-E1.
The X-A1 has a swiveling LCD, and also adds Wi-Fi, but takes away the threaded cable release socket.
With no finder except for the lippy rear LCD, I don't consider the X-A1 much more than a toy, but I love toy cameras. If you want one of these, I'm sure you'll love it, but Fuji knows you'll be coming back for a version with a finder next time. If I want to shoot without a viewfinder or need Wi-Fi, I use my iPhone.
The X-A1 has the same resolution, but doesn't claim to have the same voodoo sensor as the other cameras. Even if it is different and if it were worse, I doubt it would make any significant diffence in pictures between them, unless you're just a tweak.
Personally I prefer my Fuji X100s or Fuji X100 because each has a better finder system than any of the interchangeable lens versions, and the Fuji X100s and Fuji X100 each have the best lens Fuji has made, the incomparable 23mm f/2 ASPH, on it. The X100S also has an electronic shutter which can synchronize with flash at 1/2,000, allowing far better fill-flash performance than any of these mechanical-shuttered interchangeable lens beasts.
Lens Compatibility top
These all work with the Fuji X-Mount XF lenses.
I don't recommend lens adapters to use anything else, although tweakers love these.
Flange focal distance: 17.7mm.
No claims of non-Bayer voodoo.
23.6 mm x 15.6 mm DX.
1.5:1 aspect ratio.
4,896 x 3,264 pixels native.
Automatic internally-stitched panorama: L (16.6 MP): 7,680 x 2,160 and M (7 MP) 5,120 x 1,440.
L: (3:2, 16 MP) 4,896 x 3,264, (16:9) 4,896 x 2,760, (1:1) 3,264 x 3,264.
M: (3:2, 8 MP) 3,456 x 2,304, (16:9) 3,456 x 1,944, (1:1) 2,304 x 2,304.
S: (3:2, 4 MP) 2,496 x 1,664, (16:9) 2,496 x 1,408, (1:1) 1,664 x 1,664.
I love the square crop!
ISO 200 ~ ISO 6,400.
Pull mode to ISO 100, and push to ISO 25,600.
AUTO ISO 200 ~ 6,400.
AUTO ISO sets the slowest shutter speed at 1/(equivalent focal length), or 1/50 second with the normal 35mm f/1.4 lens.
Dynamic Range Options
100%, 200%, 400%, or AUTO (100%-400%).
NO OPTICAL VIEWFINDER.
NO ELECTRONIC VIEWFINDER.
1,920 x 1,080 @ 24p.
1,280 x 720 @ 24p.
Maximum take length: 29 minutes.
Stereo mica built-in.
Linear PCM, recorded only along with video.
TTL off-the-sensor autofocus for zero AF error.
7 x 7 array of sensed areas, 49 total.
One AF area at a time, but you can move that area all over the frame.
256-zone matrix, spot or average.
Built-in flash: GN 5 meters, 16 feet, at ISO 100. (7 meters, 22 feet, at ISO 200).
Dedicated hot shoe.
Rated for up to 300V sync voltage.
No PC sync terminal.
Rated 1/180 sync, but I never saw the camera shoot above 1/140 with flash in daylight.
It supposedly allows multiple exposures; I never tried.
6 FPS (fast) and 3 FPS (slow), but no AF or exposure changes.
1/4,000 ~ 1/4 second in PROGRAM and Aperture-Priority modes.
To 30 seconds in Manual mode.
To one hour in Bulb mode.
Maximum speed with flash (sync): Rated 1/180, but I never saw the camera shoot above 1/140 with flash in daylight.
No thread for a standard cable release.
1080/29.97p or 720/29.97p.
14 minute maximum length, 27 minutes at 720.
Uses the same film simulation, color and B&W modes as the still camera.
2.5mm stereo mica input.
SD, SDHC or SDXC (UHS-1) slot.
Wi-Fi b, g and n.
HDMI mini connector.
NP-W126 Li-Ion battery (same as X-Pro1 and X-E1).
Rated about 350 shots, same as other cameras.
Corded, uses common "∞" shaped plug end.
100~240V, 50-60 Hz.
Made in China by JET.
Rated 13~21 VA input, 8.4VDC 0.6A output.
Made in Japan.
Die-cast magnesium top and bottom covers.
32 ~ 104°F (0 ~ 40°C).
10 ~ 80% RH, no condensation.
4.6 x 2.6 x 1.5 inches WHD.
116.9 x 66.5 x 39 millimeters WHD.
Minimum depth: 32.1 mm/ 1.3 in.
(X-Pro1 is 5.5 x 3.2 x 1.7 inches/139.5 x 81.8 x 42.5 millimeters WHD, and X-E1 is 5.1 x 2.9 x 1.5 inches/129 x 74.9 x 38.3 millimeters WHD.)
Fuji rates it as 11.6 oz. (330g) with battery and card.
(The X-Pro1 weighs 15.672 oz. (444.3g) with battery and card and the X-E1 weighs 12.365 oz. (350.5g) with battery and card.)
Fujifilm X-A1 Digital Camera Body.
Li-Ion Battery NP-W126.
Battery Charger BC-W126.
Metal Strap Clip.
Clip Attaching Tool.
CD-ROM (Viewer software, RAW File Converter etc.).
High quality leather half case
FUJINON XF Lenses (3 available and 2 announced today, 10 total by end of 2013)
LEICA M Mount Adapter
Ergonomically designed hand grip
Three dedicated flash models to choose from depending on requirements (EF20, EF40, EFX20)
Protector filters (39mm, 52mm, 58mm)
Remote release cable (RR-80)
17 September 2013.
Prices, USA top
X-A1 and 16-50mm kit: $599.
The X-A1 appears to be exactly the same camera as the Fuji X-E1, just without the viewfinder.
Therefore, see my Fuji X-E1 Review for what I expect will be the same performance.
Versus the Fuji X-Pro1
Both use the same XF lens mount, slow shutter speed ranges and battery.
They are 99% the same thing, except that the X-A1 costs less, adds a built-in-flash and larger flipping LCD, but loses and and every sort of viewfinder and the threaded cable release socket.
Versus the Fuji X-E1
Both use the same XF lens mount, slow shutter speed ranges and battery.
They are 99% the same, except that the X-A1 costs less and adds a larger flipping LCD — but loses the electronic viewfinder and the threaded cable release socket.
Versus the Fuji X100S
The X100S has a built-in flash that never needs to be popped-up or put back down, and it has a superior ultrafast electronic shutter which allows flash sync to 1/2,000 and therefore far superior daylight fill-flash performance.
The X100S has the best finder of any of these cameras, with an optimized dual electronic and optical finder. It's the best because it is optimized to its fantastic fixed 23mm f/2 ASPH (35mm equiv.) lens. The X-Pro1 is close, but has weird magnifications for the optical finder that don't match the electronic finder.
The X100S is also smaller and lighter than any of the interchangeable-lens cameras.
Most of you reading this love to carry too much equipment, but since the fixed lens of the X100S is the only lens I need, personally, I prefer and own the X100S for my own use.
Versus the Fuji X100
The Fuji X100 is the same thing as the X100S, with a slightly lower resolution sensor and slightly slower operation.Otherwise, the X100 is exactly the same as the X100S.
I'm not a fan of the X-A1, except for its price. With no viewfinder of any kind, I can do without the X-A1. When I shoot with no finder, I may as well use my iPhone.
If I wanted one of these interchangeable-lens Fujis (which I don't, because I prefer the fixed lens and small size of my X100S), I prefer the X-E1 because it has an electronic finder.
The X-A1 is an excellent camera for people photos and for people who want a lightweight camera that performs as well or better than DSLRs. Its color rendition for people is superb, but not very good for nature and landscape snaps. The X-A1 has far better color than the LEICA M9, but that's not saying much.
Personally, I don't need or want all the lenses offered in the Fuji X system; one fixed lens is more than enough for me, so I prefer my old Fuji X100S over this larger and more expensive X-A1, especially for the X100's smaller size, added optical and electronic finders. If you, like most people, prefer interchangeable lenses, then the X-A1 is superb if you don't really need to see what's in your picture before you shoot it.
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Thanks for helping me help you!
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17 September 2013