24MP APS-C, 8FPS, 2-SD slots
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Fujifilm X-Pro2. bigger.
Fujifilm X-Pro2. bigger.
Magenta Flower, 07 June 2016. Fujifilm X-Pro2, Auto White Balance (shot under overcast light), Fujinon 100~400mm set to 400mm and shot wide-open with Fujinon XF 1.4x teleconverter which gives T8 at 560mm at 1/85 at Auto ISO 200, Perfectly Clear. bigger or full-resolution file to explore on your computer; mobile devices rarely display full resolution images at full resolution.
(more samples throughout the review below)
The Fujifilm X-Pro2 is an interchangeable lens mirrorless "rangefinder" style camera that has both optical and electronic viewfinders. It's also the first mirrorless camera of which I know that has two card slots, which is mandatory for use as backup for any professional use. Neither Sony nor LEICA are there yet; with only one card slot these other cameras are fun, but not suitable for any professional use where you absolutely, positively need to get your photos.
The XPro2 is a huge update from the now primitive X-Pro1 of 2012. This X-Pro2 is Fuji's best camera if you want an interchangeable lens mirrorless camera and need both electronic and optical viewfinders.
I don't find the optical finder very useful since EVFs today are real-time, and the electronic finder (EVF) isn't very good when compared to Sony's far superior EVFs. A huge problem with the X-Pro2's EVF is that it's rarely the correct brightness. It's usually too dark indoors, and sometimes too bright, in Auto brightness mode. In Manual brightness mode, it's never the right brightness as you move around. Sony's EVFs just work, while I'm always cursing at this Fuji's EVF.
I prefer Fujifilm's X-T10 which adds a built-in flash. It weighs less, too. The X-T10 skips the optical finder and otherwise has the same practical performance as this X-Pro2 — for less than half the price.
If you want a tough, well-made camera and don't need an optical finder (you don't), I prefer the X-T1, and it also costs much less. I'm serious; if I have all three on my shelf, I grab the X-T10, and if not the X-T10, I'd grab the X-T1 before I took the X-Pro2. I don't like the X-Pro2 compared to the others; it weighs more and certainly doesn't work any better.
The X-Pro2 is especially popular with hobbyists who appreciate a mechanically well-made camera. This X-Pro2 has the best mechanics of any camera coming out of the Orient today. The main reason to get an X-Pro2 is if how a camera feels in your hand is more important than how well it takes pictures. The X-Pro2 is for people whose work isn't yet good enough to warrant the ownership of the LEICA system, but still want a camera that feels well-made.
I'm not impressed with the X-Pro2. Its Auto-Area AF system works so poorly so I have to assign AF points manually, it won't focus well in very dark conditions, and its EVF is poor because it's often too dark or too bright.
The X-Pro1 was extremely innovative in its day, but it had its weirdnesses. Sadly the X-Pro2 retains all the quirkiness of the X-Pro1, and simply piles-on more features without bothering to organize any of them, so it's even harder to figure out and shoot. I was hoping that Fuji would spend its efforts streamlining its interface, while instead it just threw more garbage on the feature pile. For instance, while the ISO dial is nice, both ISO 51,200 and ISO 25,600 come up at the "H" setting; you have to select which one you get in a menu! You have to press MENU > wrench menu > button/dial setup > ISO dial setting (H) > 12,800 or 51,200, which is not easy to do when you're under pressure in the dark. The X-Pro2 does a lot of dumb things that I no longer will tolerate now that Sony has come out with better cameras that weren't around back in 2012; the world has moved on.
Quirkiness was cute back in the day when the X-Pro1 was novel and we expected Fuji to iron out the quirks. Sadly today instead of refining the X-Pro, Fuji simply piled more features on top of the existing mess.
Fuji has a history of adding even features via firmware updates, even retroactively to old models. This is fantastic for hobbyists since the camera you buy today will be even better in a year, but useless for those of us to have to produce photos today in order to eat today. I can't make a picture today with a firmware update that arrives tomorrow.
As expected, this Fuji's skin tones are awesome in any light, and OK for nature and landscapes. Use these Fujis for people pictures, but don't get a Fuji if people aren't most of what you shoot.
● Two SD card slots, a first in mirrorless as far as I know.
● The color saturation adjustment now goes to ± 4 from ± 2. I shoot at +4, and shoot my other Fujis at their maximum of +2. I seem to be able to get more vivid colors from my X-Pro2 than I can from my other Fuji cameras, all as-shot as JPGs.
● A new thumb nubbin makes it easier to select AF areas and to scroll around playback images.
● Adjustable diopter on the viewfinder like every other camera in the past 20 years; the old X-Pro1 needed fixed diopters — even for normal vision!
● Optical finder has different magnifications to set itself to different ranges of lenses, just like a 1990s 35mm point-and-shoot.
● Superior all-metal construction.
● Produced domestically in Japan.
● Almost all the buttons are on the right, so it's easy to shoot with only one hand.
● Great skin tones in any light.
● Super-sharp sensor.
● AF areas cover most of the sensor.
● Direct, dedicated shutter, exposure mode, compensation, ISO and often aperture dials.
● Has a silent electronic shutter mode, and even the standard mechanical shutter mode is quiet and refined.
● Crummy electronic viewfinder by 2016 standards; Sony has left Fuji in the dirt. It's sharp, but this Fuji's EVF is usually too bright or too dark to see well.
● Surprisingly poor low-light autofocus. Would have been OK in 2005, but you can't focus on people when it gets dim in a restaurant without an AF illuminator. Most other cameras, even the Sony RX10 Mk III, have no problem with this today.
● Unusable Auto AF-Area selection. You have to select an AF sensor manually; otherwise in Auto AF-Area mode the X-Pro2 rarely finds the subject and usually focuses on the background! The Fuji X100T is far better here; I have no idea how Fujifilm could have screwed this up.
● ● Obtuse menu and control system. Even the most basic settings like the clock or formatting are hidden at MENU > Wrench > USER SETTING > Date/Time. Screen brightness is at MENU > Wrench > Screen Setup. Good luck trying to find anything unless you shoot every day.
● No flash.
● No GPS.
● Auto ISO can't be programmed for minimum shutter speed to track lens focal length; has manual slowest-speed settings only.
● No real preset modes; the "Custom Settings" only store and recall a very limited subset of parameters.
● No touch screen.
● No RGB histogram, but not needed because the X-Pro2 does so well at handing highlight overload.
● Only a one-axis level for roll ("Dutching" or left-right tilt); no second axis for pitch (up-down).
● No deeper zero detent on the exposure compensation dial makes it impossible to find Zero quickly by feel.
● Tiny exposure compensation display in the finder means you could shoot an hour before you realize you're at +1 stop from last night.
● No battery percentage in finder, just a bar. (You can see percentage on the rear LCD.)
● Charges only by taking battery out and putting in a separate charger; can't charge via USB.
Fujifilm X-Pro2. bigger.
It uses only Fuji's X-mount lenses, which are excellent.
You can use adapters to use just about any other kind of lens, but I don't recommend this since its hokey and Fuji's own lenses are so good. Don't buy this expecting to use the other lenses you already have; plan on buying all new Fuji lenses or you're wasting your time.
No low-pass (anti-alias) filter; special random-distribution color-filter array eliminates the need for it.
15.6 x 23.6 mm.
1.5:1 aspect ratio.
1.53x crop factor.
Native: 4,000 x 6,000 pixels (24 MP).
Medium: 4,240 x 2,832 (12 MP).
Small: 3,008 x 2,000 (6 MP).
Cropped Aspect Ratios
16:9 or square crops from the above:
16:9: 6,000 x 3,376 (20 MP).
Square: 4,000 x 4,000 (16MP).
16:9: 4,240 x 2,384 (10 MP).
Square: 2,832 x 2,832 (8 MP).
16:9: 3,008 x 1,688 (5 MP).
Square: 2,000 x 2,000 (4 MP).
Dynamic Range Modes
AUTO (100% or 200%),
Manual: 100%, 200% or 400%.
200% only works with ISO 400 or above.
400% only works at ISO 800 or above.
Crazy "Film" Modes
PROVIA / Standard
Velvia / Vivid
ASTIA / Soft
PRO Neg. Hi
PRO Neg. Std
ACROS/ Black & White
B&W also as Sepia or with Yellow, Green or Red filters.
Crazy kid's modes
Partial color (Red / Orange / Yellow / Green / Blue / Purple)
ISO 200 ~ 12,800.
ISO 200 is optimum.
To ISO 25,600 or 51,200 in "H" modes and ISO 100 in the "L" mode on the ISO dial.
Three adjustable settings.
Maximum Auto ISO programmable to 12,800.
Minimum shutter speeds settable from 1/4 to 1/500.
No Auto setting for the slowest speed to track lens focal length.
JPG and/or raw.
JPEG (EXIF Ver.2.3).
Raw 14bit RAF.
sRGB and Adobe RGB.
Frame Sizes and Rates
1,920 x 1,080 at 60p, 50p, 30p, 25p or 24p for up to 14 min.
1,280 x 720 at 60p, 50p, 30p, 25p or 24p for up to 28 min.
MOD files containing:
MPEG-4 AVC / H.264 video and
Stereo linear PCM audio at 48 ksps.
Recorded only along with video.
Stereo microphones built in.
Mic-in jack with plug-in power overrides built-in mic.
No headphone jack.
7 x 7 array of phase detection pixels on-sensor.
Contrast detection AF areas cover most of the frame.
Single, Continuous and Manual modes.
16 mm eyepoint.
-4 to +2 diopters.
Built-in eye sensor to swap between:
Reverse Galilean with electronic bright frame display.
0.36x or 0.6x magnification, switched depending on lens.
0.48," 2,360,000 dot LCD.
0.59x magnification with 35mm lens.
85 FPS in good light.
150 ms blackout time.
4:3 aspect ratio.
29.1° diagonal, 24.4° horizontal apparent angle.
Auto brightness control, but works poorly.
To 8 FPS.
27 frames (raw) to 83 frames JPG at 8 FPS.
Unlimited at 3 FPS.
Rated 150,000 shots.
1/8,000 to 30 seconds in all modes except Program, whose maximum time is 4 seconds.
Manual Time mode goes to 30 seconds.
Bulb mode goes to an hour.
Silent Electronic Shutter
1/32,768 to 1 second in all modes, including manual Time mode.
Fixed at 1 second in Bulb.
An interval timer for shooting time-lapse sequences is available offering intervals of one second to 24 hours for up to 999 frames.
FUJIFILM Camera Remote app via WiFi.
FUJIFILM Remote Release RR-90 via the USB connector.
1/250 sync speed.
Dedicated hot shoe.
Standard PC (Prontor-Compur) flash sync.
TTL 256-zone metering.
Of course; this is the primary mode for mirrorless cameras like this.
3" (76 mm) diagonal.
1.5:1 aspect ratio.
Does not swivel.
No anti-reflection coating.
IEEE 802.11b / g / n
WEP / WPA / WPA2 mixed mode encryption
Fujifilm X-Pro2. bigger.
Two SD card slots.
Takes SD to 2GB, SDHC to 32GB, SDXC to 256GB.
Also takes UHS-I, and slot 1 (only) takes UHS-II.
Fujifilm X-Pro2. bigger.
Micro USB 2.0.
HDMI micro D.
ø2.5mm stereo microphone & shutter release.
Dedicated hot shoe.
Standard PC (Prontor-Compur) flash sync.
Power & Battery
Fuji NP W126 Battery.
Size: 36.4 mm × 47.1 mm × 15.7 mm/1.4 in. × 1.9 in. × 0.6 in.
Weight: 47 g/1.7 oz.
Rated 250 shots with the EVF or 350 frames with the optical finder.
— or —
Rated 110 minutes running for movies, without face detection.
Won't charge in-camera, needs external charger:
Fuji BC-W126 Charger.
Charge time: 2.5 hours.
Environment: 5° C to +40° C (41° F to 104° F).
Size: 65 mm × 91.5 mm × 28 mm/2.6 in. × 3.6 in. × 1.1 in., excluding projections.
Weight: 77 g/2.7 oz.
Corded, uses common "∞" shaped connector.
100~240V, 50~60 Hz.
Made in China by JET.
Rated 13~21 VA input, 8.4VDC 0.6A output.
5.5″ x 3.3″ 1.8″ WHD, minimum depth 1.4."
140.5 x 82.8 x 45.9 millimeters WHD, minimum depth 34.8mm.
17.095 oz. (484.6 g) with battery and card, actual measured.
Rated 17.5 oz. (495g) with battery and card.
Rated 15.7 oz. (445g) stripped naked.
Made in Japan.
Fujifilm X-Pro2. bigger.
Semi-gloss polished black paint.
Four pieces of magnesium alloy.
Sealed in a total of 61 points on each section, claiming to be dust-proof, splash-proof.
-10 to +40º C (14 to 104º F).
10 to 80 % RH.
Oddly rated "no condensation" and only to 80% RH, while the marketing material claims it's sealed and splash-proof.
Battery Charger BC-W126 and power cord.
Clip attaching tool.
15 January 2016.
May-June 2016: $1,699.
Box, Fujifilm X-Pro2. bigger.
Box back, Fujifilm X-Pro2. bigger.
From Fuji: Improves the grip on the camera and reduces the chances of camera shake, especially when using heavy, large aperture lenses. This grip can be left in place when using a tripod and enables users to change the battery and SD card without having to remove the grip from the body. The Arca Swiss plate can be used as a quick release with compatible tripods.
From Fuji: This genuine-leather bottom case elegantly shows off the X-Pro2's classic design while protecting the camera body. The battery can be replaced while the case is attached to the camera. The case comes with a cloth to wrap the entire camera body when storing it in a bag.
Like the timeless LEICA, the X-Pro2 feels wonderful in-hand, but as soon as you bring it to your eye and try to start shooting, may quickly become frustrated with the EVF being constantly too bright or too dim, and good luck getting it all set the way you want it; the menu system has become even worse than before because there's even more in it.
It's sad to see Fuji starting to go down the same road as LEICA, which is to worry more about how a camera looks and feels than how well it takes pictures. LEICAs are for people who want nice cameras, not for people who want great pictures. This Fuji is starting to get more silly and less about photography with its careless menu system.
If you use the rear nubbin to assign AF points manually, AF works well in decent light, but peters out in dim light, like inside dark restaurants.
The Auto AF-Area select mode is horrible. The X100T easily finds and locks-on to targets and faces correctly, while this X-Pro2 in the same mode cluelessly often tries to look to the side of the main subject if it's dark and focus on the background to the sides!
The good news is that unlike DSLRs, the AF areas cover essentially the entire frame.
The selector nubbin also works great, which is good because you always have to use it; you can't let the camera find AF points for itself as most other cameras do very well today.
Just like all my other Fuji cameras, the AF-L (Autofocus Lock) button doesn't do anything; it is ignored.
Exposure is great; no problems here.
The fit and feel of the controls, as well as all the dedicated knobs and dials, is the best in the business today — even better than LEICA M!
The magic stops as soon as you try to set the camera. I don't suggest this for casual shooters; there's so much menu junk spread all over that you have to be a daily shooter to stay on top of what's set where.
The problem with Fuji slathering more features on top of those we actually need are now that basic settings, like ISO 25,600 versus ISO 51,200 or the monitor brightness, are now several layers deep in the menu system.
Also frustrating is how many different menu systems we now have. We have the MENU system, as well as the Q quick control screen and I forget what else. Some things have their own custom-set (unlabeled) buttons. When you're trying to set and shoot, expect to have to go poking around all these to find what you need. Unless you use this as your primary camera every day, I expect few people will ever master it.
Almost all the buttons are on the right, so it's easy to shoot with only one hand.
The Fuji finders are unique in being able to swap between optical and electronic modes immediately. Right after you make a shot with the optical finder, you can have immediate electronic playback if you like.
The optical finder works, and its electronic graticules are visible in any light, even daylight.
With interchangeable lenses, the optical finder's magnification rarely matches the size of the electronic image playback, which is disconcerting when you have the camera set to its otherwise excellent instant electronic playback mode.
The optical finder has many clever modes that allow an electronic inset of a focus zone in a corner while the rest of the finder remains optical, but honestly I don't bother with any of these silly modes.
The EVF is the weakest part of this camera, which is sad because the finder is the most important part of any camera.
It's sharp, clear and undistorted, but its Auto Brightness Control is poor, responding only to the light coming in through the lens. Unlike better brands like Sony whose EVFs also adjust based on the light coming into them from behind and always set themselves perfectly from daylight to outdoors at night, this Fuji's finder is usually too dim indoors, and almost always the wrong brightness unless you get lucky.
You can set the brightness manually, which works great until you move again.
Outdoors it works great; it's bright enough for broad daylight. The problem is indoors, where it's often too dim when set on Auto, and if you set it to Manual, it's either too dim outside or too bright inside as you move.
The exposure compensation scale is so defectively small as to be almost illegible. It's certainly not big enough to alert you that you've got it set.
Like all digital cameras today, High ISOs look great.
As I'll show, you lose fine detail and texture at the highest ISOs, but they are all clean and give a clear image. If you need to shoot at ISO 12,800, by all means do it; it's better to have slightly lower resolution than a blurry image at a lower ISO.
ISO 51,200 loses all fine texture, but hey, if you need it, use it. There is never any distracting noise at any ISO setting; instead of noise or blotchyness you simply lose more image details and clarity.
High ISO Image Sample Files
Click any for the camera-original © files to explore on your computer; mobile devices rarely show the full resolution files properly:
Crops from above
These are 600 x 400 pixel crops. They will vary in size to fit your browser window; if they are about 6" (15cm) wide on your screen, the complete images would print at 40 x 60" (1 x 1.5 meters) at this same high magnification.
Click any for the same camera-original © files as above to explore on your computer:
As you see, noise isn't the problem; like all modern digital cameras the losses at high ISOs are that the image becomes less clear as the noise reduction throws away more and more of the image along with the noise that you don't see.
It's nice that Auto ISO has three easy-to-recall settings.
Auto ISO is flexible.
The only problem is that its slowest shutter speed can't be programmed to track with a lens' focal length. You still need to set that manually.
There is no built-in flash, which is critical to daylight people and other photos.
The X100 series works much better with flash than any of Fuji's interchangeble-lens cameras because the X100 series have leaf shutters that synchronize up to 1/2,000 of a second. The 1/250 sync speed of the focal plane (interchangeable lens) camera requires you carry a much bigger flash with you for decent results.
Ryan and Charlie, 01 June 2016. Fujifilm X-Pro2, Auto White Balance (shot under overcast light), Fujinon 35mm f/2 WR, f/2 at 1/125 at Auto ISO 250, Perfectly Clear. bigger or Camera-original © file to explore on your computer; mobile devices rarely display full resolution images at full resolution.
As I expect from Fuji, skin tones awesome. If you're a people shooter, Fujis are the best at giving great skin tones over a broader range of conditions than any other brand.
New is that we can set the saturation over a broader range, giving me even brighter colors in my JPG images, which I like.
Fuji's weak point is that its sensors are optimized for people, not places and things, so the color of places and things photos suffers.
Auto White Balance
Auto White Balance is good with natural light, but only fair under artificial light. You may need to revert to manual white balance settings more often than with the Sony RX10 Mk III or Nikon D500, for instance.
Fuji's have always been fantastic at handling highlights, and the X-Pro2 does the same.
I always use the Auto DR feature, which lets the X-Pro2 do even more to optimize itself to any light. Oddly the Auto DR feature only goes to 100% or 200%, if the light is really difficult I have to select 400% manually.
There are the usual modes to pretend to look like film. They're better than previous years; here's a few samples.
The Velvia mode is indeed bolder than the usual mode, and seems to keep contrast under control, so it's probably a good mode to use for places and things.
Click any for the camera-original JPG file.
Fujifilm X-Pro2. bigger.
Mechanical quality is far better than anything else from the Orient, and in fact it's just as good as LEICA. It's more precise, while LEICA might be a hair tougher.
If having a camera that feels impeccably well made is critical to you above everything else, this is your camera.
Most of the camera is very precisely made of metal with some engraved markings. The dials are engraved metal, while the pushbuttons are plastic with painted markings.
The battery door is plastic and the finder control lever is metal, both just like LEICA M!
In Electronic Shutter mode, it's silent.
The cool part is that the metal focal plane is also marvelous. It's not silent, but is it quiet and refined; far more quiet and refined than my LEICA M9, for instance.
The only limitations are your skill as a photographer and the lenses you use.
As shown at High ISOs like all cameras, it's sharpest at the lowest ISOs.
The clever sensor actually is sharper than other digital camera with the same rated resolution, and shots made at lower resolution settings get even sharper pixel-to-pixel, as they should.
Eucalyptus, 01 June 2016. Fujifilm X-Pro2, 24MP Normal JPG, Fujinon 35mm f/2 WR, f/5.6 at 1/420 at Auto ISO 200. bigger or camera-original © file to explore on your computer (mobile devices rarely display the full resolution data properly).
2013 Mercedes S550 wheel, June 2016. 10 MP Normal square JPG, Fujinon 35mm f/2 WR, f/5.6 at 1/180 at Auto ISO 400. bigger or full resolution to explore on your computer (mobile devices rarely display the full resolution data properly).
Katie, Gumdrop (her Fursian) and Katie's MacBook Air. Fujifilm X-Pro2, 6 MP Normal JPG, Fujinon 35mm f/2 WR, f/2 at 1/125 at Auto ISO 400, Perfectly Clear. bigger or camera-original © file to explore on your computer; mobile devices rarely display full resolution images at full resolution.
The rear LCD is swell. It's bright enough to see even in broad daylight, and it's accurate and sharp.
It doesn't swivel, which is too bad for a mirrorless camera for shooting at odd angles, and isn't anti-reflection coated.
Playback is fine, but images are fuzzy for a moment as swapped to the next image.
As you swap images, shooting data takes a moment to appear.
Cards are not properly formatted; they are left as "Untitled" instead of being properly named as "FUJIPRO2."
JPG files tend to have uniform size, even as subject complexity varies.
They are tagged as 72 DPI.
I see no clever daily or other folder creation modes.
There's a percentage gauge on the rear LCD, but all you get in the EVF is a bar graph.
I prefer the fixed-lens Fujis, the X100, X100S and X100T, because they're smaller and have much better flash control systems with their leaf shutters, as well as built-in flashes. They also have combined optical and electronic finders.
The X100T also has a much better AF system, which magically always finds faces and just focuses on them. The X-Pro2 rarely finds faces unless you manually assign an AF area to them, after which it will try to track them.
For interchangeable lens Fujis, I prefer the X-T10 because it has a built in flash, and it's much lighter — and it costs less than half as much. If I wanted a tough camera, I'd get the X-T1 instead, since it's smaller and lighter. I have little use for the optical finder on an interchangeable lens camera.
See also All Fuji Cameras Compared.
Sony's cameras have much, much better electronic finders.
Sonys lack the dedicated shooting dials of Fuji, but with the X-Pro2's even more foolish menu system and no real settings memories, I prefer Sony's ergonomics. I can set and shoot a Sony much faster than I now can set this Fuji.
I'd consider this Fuji if people are your thing since Fuji's people colors win over any other brand, but I prefer the Sony's color rendition for places and things.
Versus Nikon & Canon
I would not buy any Fuji for photos of places and things; Nikon and Canon each have far superior color rendition.
Color Rendition Compared
See the Fuji XPro-2 User's Manual.
Charges only in charger, not via USB
This is a daunting camera for someone who doesn't use it every day; Fuji has gotten as silly as other makers hiding things all over the place.
Basics like setting the clock or formatting your card are now hidden at MENU > Wrench > USER SETTING > Date/Time (etc.)
Screen brightness is at MENU > Wrench > Screen Setup.
ISOs are selected only on the ISO dial, however to select ISO 25,600 or 51,200, you have to pick just one to assign to the H position on the ISO dial.
To select this, set MENU > wrench > button/dial setup > ISO dial setting (H) > 25,600 or 51,200.
Yes, it is a design defect that Fuji forgot to have separate settings for each of these on the ISO dial. Honestly, I'd prefer they take off the third-stop settings and provide only and all of the full-stop ISOs: 100 (L), 200, 400, 800, 1,600, 3,200, 6,400, 12,800, 25,600 (H) and 51,200 (H) to speed up setting.
Third-stop ISOs are not relevant for digital; they went away with film where the design of a certain film could have any ISO.
Exposure Compensation Dial
The "C" setting switches exposure compensation to the front command dial, and expands its range to ±5 stops.
There are no deeper detents for any setting, so sadly you have to stop and look since you can't set this dial by feel as you can on a Contax G2.
Forget auto area AF, it's horrible.
Use one AF zone, and select it with the thumb nubbin.
Activate Face Detect, and once you put the AF area on a face, the XPro2 will track it around.
There's no silent (electronic) shutter available in Continuous AF mode. I have no idea why; that's just the way it is.
In Electronic (Silent) shutter it only goes to 1 second maximum or ISO 12,800 maximum — but it won't tell you that as you try to set different settings outside that range! Good luck taking 42 clicks to change the shutter mode just so you can get the shutter or ISO you need; it Fuji was smarter they'd program the XPro2 to change the shutter mode automatically as you set the speed or ISO.
B is Bulb; the shutter stays open as long as you press, up to an hour.
To select third stops or manual times longer than 1 second, use the T position. T is not the classic Time mode where the shutter stays open until you press it again; on the XPRO-2 the T setting means manual setting of values that you can't find on the other settings of the dial.
T mode goes out to 30 seconds.
Colors and Image Settings
The X-Pro2's color rendition is mild.
I set Color (saturation) to +4, and leave everything else at 0.
Of course I set Dynamic Range, ISO and everything else to Auto. I only take something off Auto when it's not doing what I need it to do.
I use any old card for stills, but Fuji suggests a class 10 or higher for shooting video.
I prefer my X100T because it's smaller and has a great flash built-in, as well as a better AF system — for less money.
For interchangeable lens Fujis, I prefer the X-T10 because it has a built in flash, and it's much lighter — and it costs less than half as much. If I wanted a tough camera, I'd get the X-T1 instead, since it's smaller and lighter. I have little use for an optical finder on an interchangeable lens digital camera; EVFs are real-time today so there's no more need.
I'm not impressed with the XPro2. If it's all I had, I'd love it to death, but considering how many camera systems I try, own and use on a daily basis, the X-Pro2 is like a LEICA: impressive if it's all you touch, but if you actually shoot every day, this Fuji is not quite ready to compete head-to-head in 2016 with the likes of Nikon, Canon and Sony.
Like a LEICA, the X-Pro2 feels great, with lovely precise knobs and controls and a nifty hybrid optical/electronic finder, but as of June 2016, its clumsy operating system, bad AF and sloppy EVF brightness control make it one of my last choices for actual shooting. Maybe Fuji will fix some of this, or maybe not, in future firmware, but that's of no help today.
As always, Fujis are optimized for people pictures, for which their color rendition is unmatched, but avoid them for photos of places and things since their color rendition trails behind other brands. At least with more saturation options than ever before from a Fuji digital camera, the X-Pro2 is better than ever for photos of places and things.
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01 June 2016