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How to Get Here
Select the Retouch Menu by pressing MENU, moving to the left and then up or down to select the brush icon at the bottom. You'll then see RETOUCH MENU on the top of the color LCD.
Want free live phone support? In the USA, call (800) NIKON-UX, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.
Trick: Press the OK button when an image is displayed to get to most of the retouch menu.
What it Sets
This lets you manipulate images in-camera. The originals are unaltered. The D3000 creates new versions of the images and saves them.
Firmware Defect: the new images are saved with a file number one more than the most recent image, and are prefaced with CSC, not DSC. The EXIF create time is unaltered, so you'll have to sort images by create time if you can.
This double-defect means that the file numbers of the newly created versions are scrambled from the originals. If you're playing with the most recent image the file numbers are close, but if you're playing with an earlier file, it's file number will be unrelated to the original.
By prefacing the file with CSC instead of DSC the modified files will sort differently than the originals.
The correct way to have done this would be to retain the same file name and append -edit, -edit1, -edit2, etc. For instance, if you make a new version of DCS_0123.jpg, the new file might be called CSC_5837.jpg. Good luck sorting them out! If done correctly, the new version would be named DSC_0123-edit.jpg.
This creates new versions of images with lightened shadows similar to Photoshop's Shadow/Highlight Adjustment tool.
You have three levels of lightening: Low, Normal, and High.
Set ADR ON and you won't need this.
This creates new versions of images attempting to rectify flash-induced red eyes. This filter is sneaky enough to know if you used flash or not to make the image, and won't let you use this filter if you didn't use flash.
I've never had a problem with red-eye with my D3000, so all the better. When I was able to cause red-eye, this filter only corrected half of the eyes!
This creates new cropped versions of images. No pixels are moved or changed in size. Trim removes unwanted pixels from the sides of an image and saves a smaller image.
This creates new black-and-white versions of images.
It has three modes:
Sepia (Brown-and-white) and
This creates new versions of images with different colors. You've got your choice of:
Skylight: slightly warmer and pinker.
Warm Filter: slightly warmer.
Etc: self explanatory. Try them and see for yourself.
This one's slick. It calls up a better control panel than Photoshop's color balance tool, which dates from the 1980s.
Nikon's tool reminds me of what we have on million-dollar color correction machines used in Hollywood telecine to color correct motion pictures.
The Nikon D3000 shows three histograms (reminiscent of Tektronix' WFM700 waveform monitors) and the D3000's Up/Down/Left/Right key becomes the color correction track ball. Click it left and right to alter blue-red, and up down for magenta - green.
If you have something neutral, watch the waveforms, oops, histograms, until they are about equal. Left - right on the Up/Down/Left/Right key slides the red and blue in opposite directions, and green - magenta slides the red and blue equally left or right. The green stays put.
This creates a much smaller version of an image.
You've got your choice of 640x480, 320x240 and 160x120 pixels.
This is silly. It creates a new image by adding two others together in the z-axis (intensity).
It only works with raw originals.
A reader wrote me about a genius plan to use this for in-camera mutilation of large dynamic range scenes by combining two very different exposures. I don't see it working. I'm missing the genius part.
You can't get to this with the OK key on playback. You have to use the menu button
NEF (RAW) Processing
This lets you make a JPG if you forgot to set the D3000 that way.
This is a quick auto-everything magic picture fixer.
This is a filter which attempts to turn the image into a line drawing for kids to color.
This blurs the image away from one zone of defined sharpness.
It plays on a weird psychological effect wherein we perceive something to be a small model if large parts of it are out of focus, which is usually what happens when photographing real miniatures.
This is fun.
Select a range of still images and it creates an AVI movie file from all those images.
Stop-motion is not what it does. The correct name would be time-lapse.
You can play these from the PLAY menu.
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