Nikon Z 50mm f/1.2
Full-Frame Ultraspeed
Format Compatibility Specifications
Z9 Z8 Z7 II Z6 II Zf Z7 Z6 Z5 Z fc Z50 Z30
Z System Z Lenses All Nikon Lenses Flash
Nikon Z 50mm f/1.2 (82mm filters, 38.4 oz./1,090g, 1.5'/0.45m close-focus, $2,097). bigger. I got mine at B&H. I'd also get mine at Adorama, at Amazon or at Crutchfield, or eventually used at eBay if you know How to Win at eBay.
This 100% all-content, junk-free website's biggest source of support is when you use those or any of these links to my personally approved sources I've used myself for way over 100 combined years when you get anything, regardless of the country in which you live. Nikon does not seal its boxes in any way, so never buy at retail or any other source not on my personally approved list since you'll have no way of knowing if you're missing accessories, getting a defective, damaged, returned, gray-market, store demo or used lens — and all of my personally approved sources allow for 100% cash-back returns for at least 30 days if you don't love your new lens. I've used many of these sources since the 1970s because I can try it in my own hands and return it if I don't love it, and because they ship from secure remote warehouses where no one gets to touch your new lens before you do. Buy only from the approved sources I've used myself for decades for the best prices, service, return policies and selection.
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Sample Images top
Format Compatibility Specifications
More samples throughout this review at Bokeh, Macro, Spherochromatism and Sunstars.
These are just snapshots; my real work is in my Gallery.
At f/1.2
2017 Specialized Tarmac Comp 58cm, Torch Edition with orange Presta valve caps, Shimano Dura-Ace CS-R9100 12-25T cassette, Shimano Integra FC-R8000 175mm 46-36T crankset, Shimano Dura-Ace PD-R9100 pedals and awesomely inexpensive ($14), light (24g) and strong carbon-fibre bottle cages, 10:17 AM, 26 June 2021. Nikon Z7 II, f/1.2 at 1/8,000 at ISO 64, -0.7 stops exposure compensation (LV 14.1), as shot. bigger, full-resolution or camera-original © BASIC ★ JPG.
You've got to be kidding me with how great is this lens: even at f/1.2 it's so sharp and contrasty and has no chromatic aberration such that I can read the microscopic printing on my tires - even on the far left-side of the picture! The only reason anything's not perfectly sharp here is that there is very little in perfect focus; the depth of field is nonexistent and the bike and its parts aren't in the same vapor-thin plane of focus.
At f/4
2017 Specialized Tarmac Comp 58cm, Torch Edition with orange Presta valve caps, Shimano Dura-Ace CS-R9100 12-25T cassette, Shimano Integra FC-R8000 175mm 46-36T crankset, Shimano Dura-Ace PD-R9100 pedals and awesomely inexpensive ($14), light (24g) and strong carbon-fibre bottle cages, 10:17 AM, 26 June 2021. Nikon Z7 II, f/4 at 1/1,250 at ISO 64, -1.0 stops exposure compensation (LV 14.9), Perfectly Clear. bigger, full-resolution or camera-original © BASIC ★ JPG.
Introduction top
Format Compatibility Specifications
I buy only from these approved sources. I can't vouch for ads below. |
This is the fastest Nikon autofocus lens ever made (the Z 58mm f/0.95 Noct is manual focus only), and is also possibly the sharpest 50mm lens they've ever made. It's ultrasharp, especially wide-open and in the corners at f/1.2.
Just turn the big electronic focus ring at any time for instant manual-focus override.
I got my Z 50mm f/1.2 at B&H. I'd also get mine at Adorama, at Amazon or at Crutchfield, or eventually used at eBay if you know How to Win at eBay.
New intro top
Nikon's first f/1.2 autofocus lens ever.
First Nikon 50mm lens with a digital display.
Good intro top
Fast f/1.2.
Super sharp, especially at f/1.2.
No visible or measurable distortion.
Programmable L-Fn button.
Claimed dirt, dust and moisture resistance.
Full-time instant manual-focus override.
Comes with "case" (really just a bag) and good hood.
Bad intro top
Laughably huge.
Very heavy.
Electronic manual focus, no real mechanical connection between lens and focus ring.
Like most mirrorless electronic manual focus systems, there's always a slight time delay between turning the manual focus ring and the lens responding.
Plastic filter threads.
Plastic exterior.
Offshored to Thailand, not made domestically in Japan.
Missing intro top
No
Nikon Z 50mm f/1.2. bigger.
Format top
Format Compatibility Specifications
I got my Z 50mm f/1.2 at B&H. I'd also get mine at Adorama, at Amazon or at Crutchfield, or eventually used at eBay if you know How to Win at eBay.
This is a full frame FX lens, and I'm reviewing it as such.
It works great on DX cameras, too.
Compatibility top
Format Compatibility Specifications
I got my Z 50mm f/1.2 at B&H. I'd also get mine at Adorama, at Amazon or at Crutchfield, or eventually used at eBay if you know How to Win at eBay.
This lens works only on Nikon's Z-series mirrorless cameras.
It does not so much as even mount on any other camera.
Specifications top
Format Compatibility Specifications
I got my Z 50mm f/1.2 at B&H. I'd also get mine at Adorama, at Amazon or at Crutchfield, or eventually used at eBay if you know How to Win at eBay.
Name specifications top
Nikon calls this the Nikon NIKKOR Z 50mm f/1.2 S:
NIKKOR: Nikon's brand name for all their lenses.
Z: For Nikon's mirrorless cameras.
S: Subliminally suggests sexual satisfaction. The "S" designation has no other purpose than subliminal seduction; Nikon and electronics and automobile and every kind of marketer have been using letters like "S" and "X" in model numbers since the 1940s for this same reason. Nikon called their first 1946 rangefinder lens mount the "S" mount, then went whole-hog to the "F" SLR mount in 1959, used "S" again when they updated their AI lenses to AI-"S" in 1983, created AF-"S" SWM lenses in 1998 and here it is again.
Also has:
ARNEO Coat: Magic anti-reflection coating that's especially good for use in high-speed lenses.
E: Electronic diaphragm for silent operation.
AF-P: Stepper (Pulse) STM autofocus motor: silent and ultra fast.
D: Couples distance information to the 3D Matrix Meter.
ED: Magic Extra-low Dispersion glass for reduced secondary chromatic aberration.
IF: Internal focusing; nothing moves externally as focused.
Aspherical: Specially curved glass elements for sharper pictures.
G: Gelded; has no aperture ring.
Nano Crystal Coat (N): Magic anti-reflection coating that has a variable index of refraction that's far more effective against ghosts and internal reflections than traditional multicoating.
∅82: 82mm filter thread.
Optics specifications top
Nikon Z 50mm f/1.2 internal optical construction. Aspherical and ED elements.
17 elements in 11 groups.
2 ED extra-low dispersion elements, which help reduce secondary axial chromatic aberration.
3 aspherical elements.
Nikon Super Integrated multicoating (SIC) with ARENEO and Nano coatings claimed.
No fluorine coatings.
Filters specifications top
Diaphragm specifications top
Nikon Z 50mm f/1.2. bigger.
9 rounded blades.
Electronically actuated.
Stops down to f/16.
Angles of View specifications top
47º diagonal on on FX.
31.5º diagonal on DX.
Focus Scale specifications top
Optional on external display.
Infinity Focus Stop specifications top
No.
Depth of Field Scale specifications top
Could be optional on external display.
Infrared Focus Index specifications top
No.
Close Focus specifications top
1.5 feet (0.45 meters) from the image plane (much closer to the front of the lens).
Maximum Reproduction Ratio specifications top
1:6.7 (0.15 ×).
Reproduction Ratio Scale specifications top
No.
Image Stabilizer specifications top
None.
Caps specifications top
LC-82B 82 mm snap-on front cap.
LF-N1 standard Z-mount rear cap.
Hood specifications top
Nikon HB-94 hood. bigger.
HB-94 hood included.
Case specifications top
Nikon CL-C2 case. This is a case? bigger.
CL-C2 "case," included.
They're kidding, right? It's just a bag, and not even padded. Geesh.
Size specifications top
3.52" ø maximum diameter × 5.9" extension from flange.
89.5 mm ø maximum diameter × 150 mm extension from flange.
Weight specifications top
38.4 oz. (1,090 g).
Quality specifications top
Nikon Z 50mm f/1.2. bigger.
Made in Thailand.
Announced specifications top
12:32 AM, Wednesday, 16 September 2020, NYC time.
Promised for specifications top
November 2020.
Included specifications top
50mm lens.
LC-82B 82 mm snap-on front cap.
LF-N1 standard Z-mount rear cap.
HB-94 hood.
CL-C2 sack.
Nikon's Model Number specifications top
20095.
Price, U. S. A. specifications top
June ~ July 2021
$2,097 at Adorama, at Amazon, at B&H or at Crutchfield.
September 2020
$2,097 at Adorama or at B&H.
Box, Nikon Z 50mm f/1.2. bigger.
Getting a Legitimate U. S. A. Version top
Format Compatibility Specifications
I got my Z 50mm f/1.2 at B&H. I'd also get mine at Adorama, at Amazon or at Crutchfield, or eventually used at eBay if you know How to Win at eBay.
This section applies in the U. S. A. only.
You need a USA Warranty Card, and the serial number must match the one on the bottom of your lens, otherwise you have no warranty.
U. S. A. Warranty Card. bigger.
If you don't have this card, if the card doesn't say "VALID IN THE CONTINENTAL UNITED STATES" or the serial number on the card doesn't match the one on your lens exactly, you got ripped off with a gray market version from another country. All legitimate lenses come with printed warranty cards, even if you prefer to register online. (The serial number on the box doesn't have to match, but if it doesn't it means you bought from a shady dealer who took lenses out of boxes and then resold these used lenses as new.)
Did you notice the clever nod to ancient computer technology? This is printed on tractor-fed paper with tear-off sides and dot-matrix printing of model and serial numbers! If your card lacks these side perforations, beware. Everyone counterfeits laser holograms, but few people have dot-matix printers floating around to fake these.
Nikon stopped offering 5-year lens warranties in 2021 in an effort to save themselves money at our expense.
Always be sure to check your box, warranty card and serial numbers while you can still return it, or just don't buy from unapproved sources or at retail so you'll be able to have your camera serviced and get free updated firmware as needed.
This is why I never buy anyplace other than from my personally approved sources. You just can't take the chance of buying elsewhere, especially at any retail store, because non-USA versions have no warranty in the U. S. A., and you won't even be able to get firmware or service for it — even if you're willing to pay out-of-pocket for it when you need it!
Nikon U. S. A. enforces its trademarks strictly. It's unlikely, but possible that US customs won't let your camera back in the country if you bought a gray-market version in the U. S. A., carried it overseas, and try to bring it back in. (If you take the chance of buying one overseas, be sure you have a receipt to prove you bought it overseas and be prepared to pay duty on it.)
If a gray market version saves you $1,000 it may be worth it, but for $200 or less I wouldn't risk having no warranty or support.
U. S. A. versions include a mulitifolded one-sheet printed manual in several languages.
Get yours from the same places I do and you won't have a problem, but if you take the risk of getting yours elsewhere, be sure to check everything while you still can return it.
Performance top
Format Compatibility Specifications
Overall Autofocus Manual Focus
Breathing Bokeh Distortion Ergonomics
Falloff Filters Flare & Ghosts Lateral Color Fringes
Lens Corrections Macro Mechanics
Stabilization Sunstars Tripod Collar
I got my Z 50mm f/1.2 at B&H. I'd also get mine at Adorama, at Amazon or at Crutchfield, or eventually used at eBay if you know How to Win at eBay.
Overall performance top
This is an optically flawless, albeit large and expensive, lens.
If you think you want one, get it!
Autofocus performance top
Autofocus is a little slow, and the motor makes a quiet whir as it operates.
I thought whirring motors went away with AF-S in the 1990s, but apparently not.
The slower focus is to allow enough precision for perfect focus at f/1.2; if you want faster AF, chose a different lens.
Manual Focus performance top
Just grab the electronic focus ring for instant manual-focus override anytime the camera is awake.
Better than any other brand, even if you're in AF-C and grab the manual-focus ring, it just swaps to manual focus instantly and stays in manual focus. Other brands will try to fight you for focus if you're in continuous AF, while this lens just does what you tell it to do.
Bravo!
The bad news is that manual focusing is entirely electronic; the manual focus ring isn't connected to anything other than a digital encoder, and there's always a slight but significant delay from when you move the ring to when the lens decides to respond. While this delay seems negligible while just playing with the lens, it's horribly annoying if you're trying to follow-focus or track anything manually, since the fraction of a second delay bungs everything up. Young people might accept this, but anyone who knows how manual focusing is really supposed to work (like me) gets annoyed and thinks this lack of instantaneous response is a step backwards.
Focus Breathing performance top
Focus breathing is the image changing size as focused in and out. It's important to cinematographers that the image not breathe because it looks funny if the image changes size as focus gets pulled back and forth between actors. If the lens does this, the image "breathes" by growing and contracting slightly as the dialog goes back and forth.
The image from this lens gets only slightly larger as focused more closely. I doubt anyone would ever notice any breathing. Bravo!
Bokeh performance top
Bokeh, the feel, character or quality of out-of-focus areas as opposed to how far out of focus they are, is neutral. Blur circles are just circles, and that's it.
Here are photos from headshot distance wide-open. Click any for the © camera-original file:
Scarecrow Owl, 26 June 2021. Camera, Lens at mm at f/ at 1/500 at Auto ISO 100 (LV 13.3). bigger or camera-original © file.
As always, if you want to throw the background as far out of focus as possible, shoot at f/1.2 and get as close as possible.
Distortion performance top
The Nikon Z 50mm f/1.2 has no visible or measurable distortion.
This means that whatever distortion it may have, it is less than what would take a factor of less than ±0.10 to correct in Photoshop's lens correction filter.
Bravo!
Ergonomics performance top
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Nikon Z 50mm f/1.2. bigger. |
Nikon Z 50mm f/1.2. bigger. |
What looks like an extra control ring around the front isn't; it's just a rubberized grab ring. Sorry, Charlie.
It's all focus ring. Sadly it's only an electronic focus ring, and it has a fraction of a second of delay between when you turn it and when the focus changes, which drives me nuts, but at least manual-focus override works brilliantly anytime the camera is awake.
The OLED is just a gimmick; it turns off unless you keep hitting the button.
The little extra control ring at the back has no clicks, so it's awful for setting just about anything. I turn this off, as it often gets knocked by accident. Oh well.
Falloff performance top
Falloff on invisible in actual pictures, with Vignette Correction left at its default of NORMAL.
I've greatly exaggerated the falloff by shooting a gray field and placing these on a gray background; it will not look this bad in actual photos of real things:
Falloff on full-frame, Vignette Control NORMAL:
© 2021 KenRockwell.com. All rights reserved. |
Of course if you go out of your way to turn the correction off, there is a little bit at f/1.2 which goes away by f/2:
Falloff on full-frame, Vignette Control OFF:
© 2021 KenRockwell.com. All rights reserved. |
Filters, use with performance top
There's no need for thin filters. I can use quite a stack of 82mm filters and there's no vignetting on full-frame.
Go ahead and use your standard rotating polarizer and grad filters.
Flare & Ghosts performance top
There's just a few ghosts, about what I'd expect for a lens like this.
See examples at Sunstars.
Lateral Color Fringes performance top
There are no color fringes as shot on Nikon cameras as JPG, which by default correct for any that may be there.
If you shoot raw and then use non-manufacturer software to process that data into images then there is the possibility that there might be some, but I doubt it.
There is spherochromatism, which can cause color fringes on things that aren't in perfect focus. Spherochromatism is a completely different aberration in a different dimension than lateral color fringes.
Lens Corrections performance top
The Z7 II, Z6 II, Z7, Z6, and Z5 correct for any or all of distortion, diffraction and falloff ("vignette control"). Each can be turned on or off individually.
TheZ7 II, Z6 II, Z7, Z6, and Z5 always correct for lateral color fringes (chromatic aberration). This is part of Nikon's secret sauce and never appears in any menu.
Macro Performance performance top
Macro doesn't get that close, but it is sharp:
At f/1.2
Casio G-Shock Solar Atomic Watch at close-focus distance on Nikon Z7 II at ISO 64, 26 June 2021. bigger or camera-original © JPG file.
1,200 × 900 pixel (6.8× magnification) crop from above. bigger or camera-original © JPG file.
If this 1,200 × 900 pixel crop is about 3" (7.5cm) wide on your screen, the complete image would print at a large 14 × 21″ (35 × 55 cm) at this same high magnification.
If this 1,200 × 900 pixel crop is about 6" (15cm) wide on your screen, the complete image would print at a huge 27½ × 41¼″ (70 × 105 cm) at this same high magnification.
If this 1,200 × 900 pixel crop is about 12" (30cm) wide on your screen, the complete image would print at a mammoth 55 × 82½″ (1.4 × 2.1 meters) at this same extremely high magnification!
At f/8
Casio G-Shock Solar Atomic Watch at close-focus distance on Nikon Z7 II at ISO 64, 26 June 2021. bigger or camera-original © JPG file.
1,200 × 900 pixel (6.8× magnification) crop from above. bigger or camera-original © JPG file.
If this 1,200 × 900 pixel crop is about 3" (7.5cm) wide on your screen, the complete image would print at a large 14 × 21″ (35 × 55 cm) at this same high magnification.
If this 1,200 × 900 pixel crop is about 6" (15cm) wide on your screen, the complete image would print at a huge 27½ × 41¼″ (70 × 105 cm) at this same high magnification.
If this 1,200 × 900 pixel crop is about 12" (30cm) wide on your screen, the complete image would print at a mammoth 55 × 82½″ (1.4 × 2.1 meters) at this same extremely high magnification!
Mechanical Quality performance top
Nikon Z 50mm f/1.2. bigger.
This is a mostly plastic lens offshored to Thailand. Its optics are extraordinary, but this expensive lens definitely is NOT heirloom quality.
Finish
Black plastic.
Hood
Plastic bayonet.
Front Bumper
None.
Filter Threads
Plastic.
Hood Bayonet Mount
Plastic.
Front Barrel Exterior
Plastic.
Focus Ring
Rubber-covered metal.
Slide Switch
Plastic.
Mid-Barrel Exterior
Section with OLED display: plastic.
OLED Window
Plastic.
Rear Control Ring.
Metal.
Rear Barrel Exterior
Section marked "50/1.2 S:" metal.
Tripod Collar
None.
Identity
Engraved in plastic ring between front element and filter threads.
Engraved and filled with paint on rear barrel.
Internals
Seem like it could be all metal!
Dust Gasket at Mount
Yes.
Mount
Chromed metal.
Serial Number
Nikon Z 50mm f/1.2. bigger.
Laser engraved on bottom of barrel.
Date Code
None found.
Noises When Shaken
Just some minor clicking.
This is a very solid lens.
Made in
Made in Thailand.
Sharpness performance top
Lens sharpness has nothing to do with picture sharpness; every lens made in the past 100 years is more than sharp enough to make super-sharp pictures if you know what you're doing. The only limitation to picture sharpness is your skill as a photographer. It's the least talented who spend the most time worrying about lens sharpness and blame crummy pictures on their equipment rather than themselves. Skilled photographers make great images with whatever camera is in their hands; I've made some of my best images of all time with an irreparably broken camera! Most pixels are thrown away before you see them, but camera makers don't want you to know that.
If you're not getting ultra-sharp pictures with this, be sure not to shoot at f/11 or smaller where all lenses are softer due to diffraction, always shoot at ISO 100 or below because cameras become softer at ISO 200 and above, avoid shooting across long distances over land which can lead to atmospheric heat shimmer, be sure everything is in perfect focus, set your camera's sharpening as you want it (I set mine to the maximum) and be sure nothing is moving, either camera or subject. If you want to ensure a soft image with any lens, shoot at f/16 at ISO 1,600 at default sharpening in daylight of subjects at differing distances in the same image.
Yes, this lens is insanely sharp, especially wide-open at f/1.2 in the corners, but only if you can get everything in perfect focus. You need a flat subject to do this, which makes for boring photos. This lens is ideal for astronomy — but The Eye of God; the Z 58mm f/0.95 Noct is much better than this lens for astronomy because it's manual focus.
MTF at /1.2 at 10 cyc/mm and 30 cyc/mm.
Spherochromatism performance top
Spherochromatism, also called secondary spherical chromatic aberration or "color bokeh," is an advanced form of spherical and chromatic aberration in a different dimension than lateral chromatic aberration. It happens mostly in fast normal and tele lenses when spherical aberration at the ends of the color spectrum are corrected differently than in the middle of the spectrum. Spherochromatism can cause colored fringes on out-of-focus highlights, usually seen as green fringes on backgrounds and magenta fringes on foregrounds. Spherochromatism is common in fast lenses of moderate focal length when shooting contrasty items at full aperture. It goes away as stopped down.
It has a typical amount of spherochromatism:
Mondaine A132.30348.11SBB at close-focus distance at f/1.2 on Nikon Z7 II at ISO 64, 26 June 2021. bigger or camera-original © file.
1,200 × 900 pixel (6.8× magnification) crop from above. bigger or camera-original © file.
If this 1,200 × 900 pixel crop is about 3" (7.5cm) wide on your screen, the complete image would print at a large 14 × 21″ (35 × 55 cm) at this same high magnification.
If this 1,200 × 900 pixel crop is about 6" (15cm) wide on your screen, the complete image would print at a huge 27½ × 41¼″ (70 × 105 cm) at this same high magnification.
If this 1,200 × 900 pixel crop is about 12" (30cm) wide on your screen, the complete image would print at a mammoth 55 × 82½″ (1.4 × 2.1 meters) at this same extremely high magnification!
Image Stabilization performance top
While this lens has NO Optical Image Stabilization (OIS, IS or VR (Vibration Reduction)), of course it will work with in-camera stabilization.
Sunstars performance top
With a 9-bladed rounded diaphragm, I get mild 18-pointed sunstars on brilliant points of light mostly at the smallest apertures.
Ignore the the vertical smear at large apertures, this is is a sensor artifact called interline transfer smear and not a lens defect.
Likewise ignore the crazy red and green dots at small apertures; these are sensor artifacts caused by taking a picture directly of the sun and exposing for the dark underside of a huge palm tree, and using that same palm tree to hide the sky to accentuate the stars.
Click any to enlarge:
Click any to enlarge.
Tripod Collar performance top
There is no tripod collar.
Try not to pull the socket out of the bottom of your camera; this is a heavy long lens.
Compared top
Format Compatibility Specifications
I got my Z 50mm f/1.2 at B&H. I'd also get mine at Adorama, at Amazon or at Crutchfield, or eventually used at eBay if you know How to Win at eBay.
This is a huge lens with excellent performance at f/1.2, but this won't make photos any different than these other more reasonable lenses unless you're working in a lab or are a scientist or astronomer. For real photos, these all take exactly the same pictures unless you're doing something technical that demands f/1.2.
I can't see why I'd ever use this lens; I'd never want to carry it. I travel light. I'd use the Z 50mm f/1.8 and be much happier.
Versus The Eye of God
Nikon Z 58mm f/0.95 Noct (82mm filters, 70.5 oz./4.4 pounds/2,000g, 1.64'/0.5m close focus). Check price.
The Nikon Z 58mm f/0.95 Noct "Eye of God" is a special-purpose lens for entirely different uses than the 50/1.2.
The Eye of God is optimized for use on a tripod for immensely important projects. The Eye of God is more of a commercial or institutional lens than something individual photographers would buy; this is more for governments, museums, surveillance and scientific and astronomical organizations.
The Eye of God is manual-focus only and designed only for use on a tripod; its manual focus system is optimized for the precision required at f/0.95.
For any normal purpose, the 50/1.2 is much more convenient and practical than the gigantic Eye of God, however if you're a tripod aficionado and deserve only the very best, consider the Eye of God.
Versus Nikon's Z 50mm f/1.8
Nikon Z 50mm f/1.8: 62mm filters, 14.5 oz./412g, 1.3'/0.4m close-focus. Check price.
The Z 50mm f/1.8 is much smaller, lighter and more practical. For a tiny fraction of the price, size, and weight, it's exactly as super sharp and focuses even closer.
Unless you really, really need f/1.2, the Z 50mm f/1.8 is much smarter buy. By the time you're shooting at f/1.8, both lenses are doing the same thing, and you'll get better pictures with the f/1.8 because it's so much easier to buy and carry that you'll have more time and energy to think about your picture. I can travel for a week or two taking pictures with the money I save getting the f/1.8 over the f/1.2, so unless you have too much money or don't mind carrying a huge 2-1/2 pound lens on the front of your camera, just go with the f/1.8.
Versus Nikon's F-Mount AFS 50mm f/1.4G
Nikon AFS 50mm f/1.4 G: 58mm filters, 9.8 oz./278g, 1.5'/0.45m close focus. Check price.
The Nikon AFS 50mm f/1.4 G on the FTZ adapter takes the same pictures as this huge new Z 50/1.2. They have the same close-focus and about the same speed and low-light ability, but this one weighs one-quarter as much and costs less than one-fifth as much.
The Z f/1.2 is for people who like to brag about their lenses, or astronomers. This f/1.4 lens takes the same pictures otherwise — although wide-open the Z 50/1.2 is sharper for critical uses.
Versus Canon's RF 50mm f/1.2L USM
Canon RF 50mm f/1.2L USM: 82mm filters, 29.4 oz./834 g, 0.92'/0.28m/11" close focus. Check price.
The Canon RF 50mm f/1.2L USM can't be adapted to any cameras other than Canon's Mirrorless system; so it's sort of silly to compare if you're already married to Nikon.
However, if you 're building a system around one of these lenses, I'd get this Canon and the Canon system before building a Nikon system around the Nikon Z 50/1.2.
The Canon RF 50mm f/1.2L USM is a much smaller lens. Both share the same extraordinary optical performance, especially wide-open at f/1.2, while the Canon focuses more closely and weighs much less, so you're more likely to have it with you and still have enough energy to keep shooting more and better images. The Canon lens is big, while the Nikon 50/1.2 is laughably huge and makes you stand out and not want to carry it.
The Canon RF 50mm f/1.2L USM is quality made domestically in Japan, while Nikon dumped production of its lens to Thailand to save itself money. Both lenses sell for about the same price; they go up and down so it varies each month.
See also Nikon vs Canon vs Sony Full-Frame Mirrorless.
Versus Canon's RF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM
Canon RF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS: 77mm filters, 41.9 oz./1,187g with collar as shown, 37.5 oz./1,062g without, 2.3'/0.7m close focus. Check price.
Just to put the insane size and weight of this Nikon Z 50mm f/1.2 lens in perspective, the Canon RF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM takes smaller filters (77mm versus 82mm), is is just a bit shorter (146mm versus 150mm) and without its tripod collar weighs just a little less (1,062g versus 1,090 g) than this Nikon 50mm f/1.2!
Recommendations top
Format Compatibility Specifications
I got my Z 50mm f/1.2 at B&H. I'd also get mine at Adorama, at Amazon or at Crutchfield, or eventually used at eBay if you know How to Win at eBay.
This lens is for people who deserve the very best and aren't afraid to pay for it — or carry it. If you really need f/1.2 or are the guy who takes his Really Right Stuff tripod everywhere you go, this lens is for you. The Z 50mm f/1.8 is far more practical and portable for my hand-held use — and just as insanely sharp. This huge beast is for the truly afflicted, and you people know who you are.
For even less money my Nikon AFS 50mm f/1.4 G on the FTZ adapter works very well, even if it's very slightly softer wide-open — which may be a benefit for portraits.
If you are a tripod kind of guy, once you're on a tripod, the Nikon Z 58mm f/0.95 Noct is an even better lens. The Noct is optimized for manual focus on a tripod. If you demand the best and focus manually or prefer tripods, consider manning-up to The Eye of God.
As decades and decades of practical experience has taught me, while we all want the biggest, fastest lens possible when shopping for it because we think it's better, when it comes down to having to carry this beast around, I doubt that most people will ever appreciate this lens unless they absolutely, positively need the sharpest possible lens at f/1.2. As soon as you stop down to f/1.8, you may as use the equally excellent Z 50mm f/1.8 and save the weight and money.
People who deserve the very best know who you are. If you're one of them, go for it.
I use a clear (UV) protective filter instead of a cap so I'm always ready to shoot instantly. I only use a cap when I throw this in a bag with other gear without padding — which is never. The UV filter never gets in the way, and never gets lost, either.
The very best protective filter is the 82mm Hoya multicoated HD3 UV which uses hardened glass and repels dirt and fingerprints. The Nikon NC 82mm is also an excellent choice, but not as resistant to the environment as the HD3 UV.
For less money, the B+W 82mm 010 is an excellent filter, as is the multicoated version, but the Hoya HD3 is the toughest and the best.
Any of these filters protects as well and gives ultrasharp images, but since filters last a lifetime, you may as well get the best since the Hoya HD3 is tougher and stays cleaner than the others since it repels oil and dirt.
I got my Z 50mm f/1.2 at B&H. I'd also get mine at Adorama, at Amazon or at Crutchfield, or eventually used at eBay if you know How to Win at eBay.
This 100% all-content website's biggest source of support is when you use those or any of these links to approved sources when you get anything, regardless of the country in which you live. Nikon does not seal its boxes in any way, so never buy at retail or any other source not on my personally approved list since you'll have no way of knowing if you're missing accessories, getting a defective, damaged, returned, non-USA, store demo or used lens. I use the stores I do because they ship from secure remote warehouses where no one gets to touch your new camera before you do. Buy only from the approved sources I use myself for the best prices, service, return policies and selection.
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Ken Rockwell.
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Ken Rockwell.