Nikon Z 1.4&times; Teleconverter

These are just snapshots; my real work is in my Gallery.

More samples also at Sharpness.

These are all shot hand-held as BASIC ★ JPGs; no tripods, NORMAL or FINE JPGs or RAW files were used or needed.

Z 400mm f/4.5 VR, No TC

Desert Palms and Mountains at Dawn, 7:37 AM, Monday, 14 November 2022. Nikon Z7 II, Nikon Z 400mm f/4.5 VR at f/5.6 hand-held at ¹/₂₀₀ at Auto ISO 64 (LV 13¼), as shot. bigger or camera-original 45 MP © 9 MB JPG file.

Z 400mm f/4.5 VR with TC 1.4×

Desert Palms and Mountains at Dawn, 7:38 AM, Monday, 14 November 2022. Nikon Z7 II, Nikon Z 400mm f/4.5 VR with Z TC 1.4× teleconverter (making this a 560mm lens) wide open at f/6.3 hand-held at ¹/₁₂₅ at Auto ISO 64 (LV 12.9), as shot. bigger or camera-original 45 MP © 9 MB JPG file.

Z 400mm f/4.5 VR with TC 2×

Desert Palms and Mountains at Dawn, 7:39 AM, Monday, 14 November 2022. Nikon Z7 II, Nikon Z 400mm f/4.5 VR with Z TC 2× teleconverter (making this an 800mm lens) wide open at f/9 hand-held at ¹/₈₀ at Auto ISO 64 (LV 13.3), as shot. bigger or camera-original 45 MP © 9 MB JPG file.

Not bad! The biggest sharpness robber here are atmospheric conditions and the fact that these palms are not lying in the same plane, so most of them are simply out of focus.

I love that I can hand-hold this 800mm combination at 1/80; heck, it works great even at 1/30.

Introduction top

B&H Photo - Video - Pro Audio

This Z 1.4× Teleconverter increases a lens' focal length by 40%, but also makes its maximum aperture one stop slower and requires a shutter speed twice as long or an ISO twice as high, or a combination of the two. Of course at smaller apertures it's all the same, but with long lenses we're usually shooting at maximum aperture to stop action and/or camera shake.

I can't see any degradation in optical quality or autofocus speed when using this 1.4× converter. Unlike back in the days of SLRs and DSLRs, except for the one-stop light loss, there is little other penalty to pay. The finder images are as bright as without the converter.

It's a mild 1.4× teleconverter so it doesn't have any difference in practical image quality or autofocus speed, but on the other hand it doesn't give much more reach, either.

You might see softer images with this converter if you look too closely, but these are because of higher ISOs or blur from longer shutter speeds from the loss of light or enlargement of atmospheric disturbances like haze and heat shimmer, not from any optical fault of the converter itself.

I got my Z TC 1.4× Teleconverter at B&H. I'd also get it at Adorama, at Amazon or at Crutchfield, or used at eBay if you know How to Win at eBay.

New intro top

blue ball icon © KenRockwell.com Nikon's first mirrorless teleconverter, along with the TC-2×.

Good intro top

green ball icon © KenRockwell.com Aspherical element for the best possible optical performance.

Bad intro top

red ball icon © KenRockwell.com Production dumped to China, not made domestically in Japan:

Nikon Z TC 1.4× with Special BF-N2 Teleconverter Front Cap and Standard LF-N1 Rear Cap. bigger.

Missing intro top

gray ball icon © KenRockwell.com Nothing; it's just a teleconverter.

Compatibility top

I got my Z TC 1.4× Teleconverter at B&H. I'd also get it at Adorama, at Amazon or at Crutchfield, or used at eBay if you know How to Win at eBay.

This teleconverter will not work with the FTZ or FTZ II and will not work with any F-mount lenses or cameras.

This teleconverter works only with Nikon's Z cameras, and as of November 2022, this teleconverter works only with these six Nikon Z-mount lenses:

Nikon Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR (becomes a 100-280mm f/4)

Nikon Z 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 VR (becomes a 140-560mm f/6.3-8)

Nikon Z 400mm f/4.5 VR (becomes a 560mm f/6.3)

Nikon Z 400mm f/2.8 VR (becomes a 560mm f/4)

Nikon Z 600mm f/4 TC VR (becomes an 800mm f/5.6 with the lens' own internal 1.4× converter or with this converter alone, or a 1,200mm f/8 with both this converter and the lens' own internal converter)

Nikon Z 800mm f/6.3 VR (becomes an 1,120mm f/9)

It won't mount to any other Nikon Z lenses because it needs to poke into the back of the lens, and all the other lenses have glass that goes all the way back to the mount.

These six lenses above each have enough airspace in the back to accommodate the poked-out elements of the converter.

Additionally, the bayonet mounts are keyed so that only compatible lenses can mate. The teleconverter has a small extra fifth lug on its front bayonet that will block any incompatible lens (or the FTZ or FTZ II) from mounting unless that lens also has a matching void cut out of one of its lugs. In other words, five lugs good, four lugs bad for what can attach to the front of the teleconverter.

This converter will not stack this with other teleconverters for the same reason: there is no room in the back of the converter to accommodate the poked-out front elements of either the Z TC 2× or Z TC 1.4×, and their mounts aren't cut out for it (ha ha).

Specifications top

I got my Z TC 1.4× Teleconverter at B&H. I'd also get it at Adorama, at Amazon or at Crutchfield, or used at eBay if you know How to Win at eBay.

Name specifications top

Nikon calls this the Nikon Z 1.4× Teleconverter:

Z: For Nikon's mirrorless cameras.

Oddly it doesn't say NIKKOR anywhere on it.

It also has:

Aspherical: Specially curved glass element for sharper pictures.

D: Couples distance information to the 3D Matrix Meter.

Optics specifications top

Nikon Z 1.4× Teleconverter Internal Optical Construction. Aspherical element. bigger.

6 elements in 4 groups.

1 aspherical element.

Nikon Super Integrated multicoating (SIC).

Fluorine coated front and rear elements to resist crud.

Diaphragm specifications top

None.

Filters specifications top

None.

Focal Length specifications top

1.4 times that of the lens with which it's used.

Maximum & Minimum Apertures specifications top

One stop less than the lens with which it's used.

For example, with an f/2.8 lens, the maximum aperture is f/4. With an f/5.6 lens, the maximum aperture is f/8.

Likewise, the minimum aperture is a stop smaller. If the lens stops down to f/22, it will stop down to f/32 with this converter.

Nikon Z cameras show the correct (effective) aperture in the finder and in the EXIF.

Close Focus (distance from subject to image plane) specifications top

Same as the lens with which it's used.

Maximum Reproduction Ratio specifications top

1.4 times that of the lens with which it's used.

Image Stabilizer specifications top

NONE, but works with both in-lens and in-camera stabilization if you have it.

Caps specifications top

Special BF-N2 Teleconverter Front Cap and standard LF-N1 Z-mount rear cap included.

"Case" specifications top

Nikon CL-C4 Lens "Case". bigger.

Nikon claims it includes a case, but it's only a CL-C4 cloth bag.

A tube sock works better.

Size specifications top

2.9" ø maximum diameter × 0.8" flange-to-flange. 1.5" overall length.

72 mm ø maximum diameter × 18.5 mm flange-to-flange. 37mm overall length.

Weight specifications top

7.8 oz. (220 g).

Announced specifications top

Tuesday, 21 July 2020.

Included specifications top

Teleconverter.

Special BF-N2 Teleconverter Front Cap.

LF-N1 Z-mount rear cap.

CL-C4 sack.

USA Warranty Card.

Folded huge multiple-language instruction sheet.

Nikon's Model Number specifications top

20098.

Price, U. S. A. specifications top

September ~ November 2022

$547 at B&H, at Adorama, at Amazon and at Crutchfield.

About $525 used if you know How to Win at eBay.

Nikon Z 1.4× Teleconverter Box. bigger.

Getting a Legal U. S. A. Version top

I got my Z TC 1.4× Teleconverter at B&H. I'd also get it at Adorama, at Amazon or at Crutchfield, or used at eBay if you know How to Win at eBay.

This section applies in the U. S. A. only.

Your teleconverter must include a U. S. A. warranty card like the one shown above from Nikon, Inc. The U. S. A. office is Nikon, Inc.; the Japanese headquarters is Nikon Corporation. The card should be inside your box. The serial number on the card must match the serial number on the bottom of your teleconverter:

U. S. A. Warranty Card. bigger.

If you don't have this card, if the card doesn't say "VALID IN THE CONTINENTAL UNITED STATES" or the serial number on the card doesn't match the one on the bottom of your teleconverter exactly, you got ripped off with a gray market version from another country. All legitimate cameras and lenses come with printed warranty cards, even if you prefer to register online. (The serial number on the outside of the box doesn't have to match, but if it doesn't it means you bought from a shady dealer who took cameras lenses out of boxes and then resold these used lenses cameras as new.)

The U. S. A. warranty card comes from Nikon, Inc., the U. S. A. office; the Japanese headquarters is Nikon Corporation.

The warranty is also valid only if you are the original purchaser and only if it was purchased from an authorized dealer. All because a store or someone claims to be authorized doesn't mean they are. That's why I only buy from my personally approved sources.

Shifty dealers may include color copies of a card from a legitimate U. S. A. product in a gray-market box, hoping you won't check serial numbers and catch their fraud. A card with the wrong serial number means nothing other than that you have no warranty coverage.

Nikon stopped offering 5-year lens warranties in 2021 in an effort to save themselves money at our expense.

Always be sure to check your box, warranty card and serial numbers while you can still return it, or just don't buy from unapproved sources or at retail so you'll be able to have your camera serviced and get free updated firmware as needed.

This is why I never buy anyplace other than from my personally approved sources. You just can't take the chance of buying elsewhere, especially at any retail store, because non-USA versions have no warranty in the U. S. A., and you won't even be able to get firmware or service for it — even if you're willing to pay out-of-pocket for it when you need it!

Nikon U. S. A. enforces its trademarks strictly. It's unlikely, but possible that US customs won't let your camera back in the country if you bought a gray-market version in the U. S. A., carried it overseas, and try to bring it back in. (If you take the chance of buying one overseas, be sure you have a receipt to prove you bought it overseas and be prepared to pay duty on it.)

If a gray market version saves you $250 it may be worth it, but for $100 or less I wouldn't risk having no warranty or support.

Get yours from the same places I do and you won't have a problem, but if you take the risk of getting yours elsewhere, be sure to check everything while you still can return it.

Performance top

Autofocus Ergonomics Sharpness Stabilization

I got my Z TC 1.4× Teleconverter at B&H. I'd also get it at Adorama, at Amazon or at Crutchfield, or used at eBay if you know How to Win at eBay.

Autofocus performance

Autofocus, at least with my Z7 II and Z 400mm f/4.5, is the same with or without this converter. I don't see any degradation in AF performance.

Nikon's Z system has always had pretty poor autofocus performance compared to Canon mirrorless and Sony. While autofocus performance isn't that great with this converter and my Z 400mm f/4.5, it isn't that great without the converter either.

My Nikon system works as well with or without this converter, which means this converter is doing what it should.

Ergonomics performance


Front. bigger.	Back. bigger.

Nikon Z 1.4× Teleconverter.

There are no controls; you simply mount this between your compatible lens and your camera body.

The only gotcha in the field is to be sure not to poke your sensor or shutter with the the rubber-coated front protrusion by trying to attach it backwards.

Mechanical Quality performance top

This is a sturdy little all-metal beast.

Front Bumper

Rubber.

Exterior

Metal.

Identity

Engraved and filled with paint on barrel.

Also printed with dark grey paint on bottom of barrel.

Dust Gasket at Rear Mount

Yes.

Mount

Chromed metal.

Serial Number

Nikon Z TC 1.4×. bigger.

Laser engraved on bottom of barrel.

Date Code

None found.

Noises When Shaken

Moderate clicking, which is weird for something presumably with no moving parts.

Made in

Made in China.

Sharpness performance top

It's ultrasharp; sharper than the air through which we shoot.

In these samples below I'm shooting through 10 kilometers (6 miles) of air.

If you look carefully at the full resolution files, you'll see all sorts of weird distortions of the subject, as if you're looking through water to the bottom of a pool. This is exactly the same effect. It's called heat shimmer. Air refracts light differently based on its density, and air's density varies with its temperature. In the real world air is always at different temperatures in different places, and as the air moves around it creates waves the same way.

While these waves are usually too subtle to see with our naked eyes except in extreme cases like desert mirages, ultra-telephoto lenses (and telescopes) magnify this effect and make this very obvious when shooting at long distances.

Thus the many small regions of localized softness you may see are not caused by the lens, but by the heat shimmer. The lens is accurately recording it.

What's impressive is that the sharpness doesn't vary from center to corner, and how clearly you can see how these heat waves warp straight lines.

Z 400mm f/4.5 VR wide-open at f/4.5, hand-held

Desert Floor as Seen from Six Miles (10 km) Away, 2:20 PM, Thursday, 10 November 2022. Nikon Z7 II, Nikon Z 400mm f/4.5 VR wide-open at f/4.5 hand-held at ¹/_1,250 at Auto ISO 64 (LV 15.3), Radiant Photo Software to cut through the haze. bigger or full resolution.

Z 400mm f/4.5 VR with Z TC 1.4× wide-open at f/6.3, hand-held

Just as sharp with the teleconverter:

Desert Floor as Seen from Six Miles (10 km) Away, 2:22 PM, Thursday, 10 November 2022. Nikon Z7 II, Nikon Z 400mm f/4.5 VR with Z TC 1.4× teleconverter (making this a 560mm lens) wide-open at f/6.3 hand-held at ¹/₆₄₀ at Auto ISO 64 (LV 15.3), Radiant Photo Software to cut through the haze. bigger or full resolution.

Z 400mm f/4.5 VR with Z TC 2× wide-open at f/9, hand-held

It's just as sharp with the 2x teleconverter. You can see more fine details, even though the heat shimmer is magnified twice as much as the first image without the teleconverter.

Desert Floor as Seen from Six Miles (10 km) Away, 2:23 PM, Thursday, 10 November 2022. Nikon Z7 II, Nikon Z 400mm f/4.5 VR with Z TC 2× teleconverter (making this an 800mm lens) wide open at f/9 hand-held at ¹/₂₅₀ at Auto ISO 64 (LV 15.0), Radiant Photo Software to cut through the haze. bigger or full resolution.

Lens sharpness has nothing to do with picture sharpness; every lens made in the past 100 years is more than sharp enough to make super-sharp pictures if you know what you're doing. The only limitation to picture sharpness is your skill as a photographer. It's the least talented who spend the most time worrying about lens sharpness and blame crummy pictures on their equipment rather than themselves. Skilled photographers make great images with whatever camera is in their hands; I've made some of my best images of all time with an irreparably broken camera! Most pixels are thrown away before you see them, but camera makers don't want you to know that.

If you're not getting ultra-sharp pictures with this, be sure not to shoot at f/11 or smaller where all lenses are softer due to diffraction, always shoot at ISO 100 or below because cameras become softer at ISO 200 and above, avoid shooting across long distances over land which can lead to atmospheric heat shimmer, be sure everything is in perfect focus, set your camera's sharpening as you want it (I set mine to the maximum) and be sure nothing is moving, either camera or subject. If you want to ensure a soft image with any lens, shoot at f/16 or smaller at ISO 1,600 or above at default sharpening in daylight of subjects at differing distances in the same image.

People worry waaaaay too much about lens sharpness. It's not 1968 anymore when lenses often weren't that sharp and there could be significant differences among them; ever since about 2010 all new lenses are all pretty much equally fantastic.

As I said at the top, you may very well see unsharpness with this converter if you're looking too closely, but this unsharpness is caused by the higher ISOs and longer shutter speeds demanded by the loss of light, or by it simply and accurately magnifying and exaggerating subject motion, flaws in your technique or atmospheric conditions.


MTF with 70-200mm f/2.8 VR set to 70mm wide-open at f/2.8 (100mm at f/4 effective). bigger.	MTF with 70-200mm f/2.8 VR set to 200mm wide-open at f/2.8 (280mm at f/4 effective). bigger.

Nikon's MTF charts at 10 cyc/mm and 30 cyc/mm with the 70-200mm f/2.8 VR.

Image Stabilization (VR) performance top

This lens has no Optical Image Stabilization (OIS, IS or VR (Vibration Reduction)), but does work with any in-camera stabilization your camera or optical stabilization your lens may have.

For instance,VR works great with my stabilized Z 400mm f/4.5 VR. With a stabilized camera like my Z7 II I can hand-hold at 1/30 of a second, with this or even with Z TC 2× teleconverter.

"Percent Perfectly Sharp Shots" are the percentage of frames with 100% perfect tripod-equivalent sharpness I get when I'm shooting hand-held while free-standing with no support or bracing. Hand tremor is a random occurrence, so at marginal speeds some frames will be perfectly sharp while others will be in various stages of blur — all at the same shutter speed. This rates what percentage of shots are perfectly sharp, not how sharp are all the frames:

With Z TC 1.4× Teleconverter on Stabilized Z7 II

% Perfectly Sharp Shots	¹/₈	¹/₁₅	¹/₃₀	¹/₆₀	¹/₁₂₅	¹/₂₅₀	¹/₅₀₀	¹/_1,000	¹/_2,000
Stabilization ON	0	33	100	100	100	100	100	100	100
Stabilization OFF	0	0	0	0	0	0	67	67	100

I see a 4-stop real-world improvement.

I get perfectly sharp shots almost all the time at 1/30 with VR, but need 1/2,000 to get the same results without VR.

Recommendations top