Help me help you top
If you find this page as helpful as a book you might have had to buy or a workshop you may have had to take, feel free to help me continue helping everyone.
While free to read online, this page is formally registered and copyrighted, so it is unlawful to make copies, especially in the form of printouts for personal use or saving these pages or files. If you wish to make a printout for personal use, you are granted one-time permission to print from your browser (there is no PDF) only if you PayPal me $5.00 per printout, file save, or part thereof, unless of course you bought your D800 through one of my links. This is how I justify spending weeks away from my family writing and sharing all this for free online.
Thank you and thanks for your support!
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How to Get Here
Select the Retouch Menu by pressing MENU, moving to the left and then up or down to select the brush icon second from the bottom. You'll then see RETOUCH MENU on the top of the color LCD.
Trick: You also can hit OK while an image is playing.
What it Sets
This is a silly menu that lets you twiddle with images you've already shot. The originals are unaltered. The D800 and D800E create and save new versions of the images.
Concatenation: The D800 and D800E is sneaky enough to know if a file was created with these trick modes, and often won't let you apply the same filter twice. You can concatenate different filters, but not the same one trying to get a stronger effect.
If your original image is an NEF or TIFF, it will be saved as a FINE LARGE JPG. Otherwise, it's saved the same way as the original image.
Firmware Defect: The new images are saved with a file number one more than the most recent image. The EXIF create time is unaltered, so you'll have to sort images by create time if you can.
This defect means that the file numbers of the newly created versions are scrambled from the originals. If you're playing with the most recent image the file numbers are close, but if you're playing with an earlier file, its file number will be unrelated to the original.
The correct way to have done this would be to retain the same file name and append -edit, -edit1, -edit2, etc. For instance, if you make a new version of DCS_0123.jpg, the new file might be called DSC_5837.jpg. Good luck sorting them out! If done correctly, the new version would be named DSC_0123-edit.jpg.
The D800 and D800E are improved from earlier cameras, at least the files all begin the same way as the original file, regardless of how you set it. Pity the D40 owners who use these Retouch gimmicks, because the D40 changes the file prefixes as well!
Here's what each does:
This lightens dark shadows. It doesn't touch highlights.
You have three levels of lightening: Low, Normal, and High.
If you set ADR to AUTO for shooting as I do, you shouldn't need this. Remember: shadows are supposed to be dark.
Red-Eye Correction top
This attempts to rectify flash-induced red eyes.
This filter is sneaky enough to know if you used flash or not to make the image, and won't let you use this filter if you didn't use flash!
I've never had a problem with red-eye with my D800 or D800E, so all the better. When I was able to cause red-eye, this filter only corrected half of the eyes!
This creates cropped versions of images.
No pixels are moved or changed in size.
Trim removes unwanted pixels from the sides of an image and saves a smaller image.
This creates black-and-white images.
It has three modes:
Filter Effects top
This creates images with warmer colors. You've got your choice of:
Very slightly pinker.
You can forget the skylight filter.
Slightly warmer (more orange).
The Warm filter usually improves casual images, especially if you didn't set WB shift to A3 as I prefer by holding the WB button and spinning the front dial before shooting.
Red, Green and Blue Intensifiers
These filters enhance Red, Green or Blue.
This filter attempts to put sunstars on bright points of light.
Softens the image.
It severely blurs a copy of the image, and then adds this as a semi-transparent layer over the base image, so it works more like a fog filter.
Color Balance top
This one's slick. It calls up a better control panel than Photoshop's color balance tool, which dates from the 1980s.
Nikon's tool reminds me of what we have on million-dollar Hollywood telecine color correction machines used to color correct motion pictures.
The Nikon D800 and D800E shows three histograms (reminiscent of Tektronix' WFM700 waveform monitors) and the D800 and D800E's Up/Down/Left/Right key becomes the telecine color-correction track ball. Click it left and right to alter blue-red, and up down for magenta - green.
If you have something neutral, watch the waveforms, oops, histograms, until they are about equal. Left - right on the Up/Down/Left/Right key slides the red and blue in opposite directions, and green - magenta slides the red and blue equally left or right. The green stays put.
This allows you to correct in any color, and if you want to warm an image (that I do most often in Photoshop), allows more flexibility than the fixed Warm filter above.
Image Overlay top
This lets you create a double exposure from any two NEF files.
I think its silly, but others use it for HDR by combining two files made at different exposures, and others use it for in-camera additions of moons into otherwise blank skies.
NEF (RAW) Processing top
This lets you create and save a JPG on your card if you only shot NEF.
This lets you save a new file at a smaller size, keeping the same composition.
Quick Retouch top
This does a little of everything that Nikon thinks your photo might need.
This lets you correct for crooked or tilted pictures.
It only works in one axis, roll.
Distortion Control top
This lets you attempt to remove geometric distortion.
This is a leftover feature from earlier models that couldn't correct this automatically when shot, as can the D800 and D800E.
This lets you warp the image to imitate a fisheye lens.
Color Outline top
This lets you create an imitation of a pencil drawing.
It's not in color; it's making an image you can give to your kids to color.
Color sketch top
This lets you create a fake watercolor.
Perspective Control top
This lets you correct images where the camera wasn't held parallel to the subject.
It works in two axes.
Miniature effect top
This lets you make a picture of a real subject look as if it's a photo of a much smaller model.
The way this works is by blurring the top and bottom, limiting the apparent depth-of-field.
The reason this makes the subject look like a model is because models have to be shot close-up to look as big as the real thing, and this close-up strongly limits the depth-of-field.
This sounds complicated, yet our subconscious recognizes this instantly, which is why this works.
Selective Color top
This lets you create a black-and-white image, retaining one item in color.
Edit Movie top
You can trim clips from your movies in-camera.
Better, you can pull-out single frames!
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