16MP APS-C, 7 FPS, OLED finder
This ad-free website's biggest source of support is when you use those or any of these links to approved sources when you get anything, regardless of the country in which you live. Fuji does not seal its boxes, so never buy at retail or any source not on my personally approved list since you'll have no way of knowing if you're missing accessories, getting a defective or damaged customer return or a used product. Buy only from the approved sources I use myself for the best prices, service, return policies and selection. Thanks for your support! Ken.
Back, Fujifilm X-E2s. enlarge.
Top, Fujifilm X-E2s. enlarge.
Back, Fujifilm X-E2s. enlarge.
Velvia Mode and +2 Color looks great for nature and landscape.
Great skin tones in any light!
Backlit Palm, La Quinta, 04 November 2016. Fuji X-E2s, Fuji XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 at 55mm at f/5.6 at 1/160 at Auto ISO 200, Perfectly Clear. bigger or camera-original JPG file to explore on your computer.
Palms at Dawn, Looking Up, La Quinta, 05 November 2016. Fuji X-E2s, Fuji XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 at 20.5mm at f/5.6 at 1/170 at Auto ISO 200. bigger or camera-original JPG file to explore on your computer.
The Fujifilm X-E2s is my Favorite Fuji camera with interchangeable lenses because unlike the more expensive Fuji X-T2 and Fuji X-Pro2, the X-E2s weighs less and has a built in flash. Having a flash is critical for people shots in most kinds of light, and those other Fujis, while popular with amateurs because they seem like nicer cameras, cost more, weigh more, but do less since they lack a flash. The pictures and everything else are about the same. I'll pick the lighter camera what has more of what I actually need ( a flash) over a poseur camera any day; I have images to make and flash is important.
My X-E2s lets me create images that are clean, neutral and vivid color.
My E-E2s is smooth, quiet, refined, precise and exudes a feeling of quality too often missing from other brands who offshore their junk to China. My X-E2s is precision-crafted in Japan mostly of metal.
These Fuji cameras are often faster and easier to use for people who know how to shoot because it has all the right controls in the right places, and they're always super-sharp and work great in any crazy light. The X-E2s's color rendition is fantastic for people photos, and much better than earlier Fujis for color photos of places and things as Fuji has gotten the Velvia mode to work much better.
The X-E2s also excels for black-and-white shooting because of its extraordinary sharpness and freedom from distortion, and I love shooting in its optional square format just like my Mamiya 6 or Hasselblad.
The X-E2s has a very different sensor from everything else that comes from any other maker, and its images look very different. It has no anti-alias filter, so the results are much sharper than from most other cameras.
The X-E2s just shoots, and the results are always super-sharp and well exposed — better than I get from DSLRs, whose exposure and focus aren't always dead-on as they are with the X-E2s. With the X-E2s, it seems as if I can't make a blurry or malexposed shot.
The X-E2s is built as well and is as sharp as the legendary $7,000 LEICA M240 — but the X-E2s has a far better electronic finder and far better ergonomics and autofocus, and well, just about everything.
The almost all-metal X-E2s is better-built than a Nikon D5, and with the X-E2s's dedicated aperture, shutter speed and exposure compensation dials, handles much faster than today's DSLRs.
The X-E2s has a wonderful OLED finder, which also doubles for through-the-finder menu setting and playback.
The Fuji X-T2 is pretty much the same camera, but bigger with a flippy screen — but without the built-in flash of this X-E2s.
The X-E2s has image quality and lenses more like my LEICA M9 or M 240 than any DSLR, and it's smaller and lighter than any DSLR — or LEICA M. The X-E2s does what the LEICA does well, even better than the LEICA does it!
Real shooters shoot LEICAs because of their simplicity, small size and fantastic optics, and the X-E2s does all this even better. The X-E2s is ergonomically superior to LEICA, its optics are at least as good, all for a fraction of the price with none of the poseur attitude.
The X-E2s is what you get when you take the image and lens quality of a digital LEICA, put it in the ergonomically superior Contax G2, and then add a built-in flash. The X-E2s is also worlds better at high ISOs than LEICA.
The Fuji X-E2s is a real camera, made of metal, not plastic, for photographers.
The X-E2s has shutter and aperture dials. Nikon and Canon don't any more.
The X-E2s has a real exposure compensation dial. LEICA and Nikon don't any more.
The X-E2s has real exposure mode switches. Nikon and Canon don't any more. Better yet, the Fuji, just like Contax, changes its exposure mode by turning the shutter and/or aperture rings to A when you want them to set themselves. Set both to A for Professional (formerly Program) exposure mode. Done!
The X-E2s makes movies too. The X-E2s has a built-in electronic manual focus assist loupe.
Fuji has made cameras for Hasselblad, and sold under the Hasselblad name, like the X-Pan. Neither Nikon nor Canon has ever been good enough.
It drives me nuts shooting a DSLR or LEICA when I can't see my image pop up instantly in the finder after I've shot it — as I do with my X-E2s. Yes, there are plenty of plastic consumer Micro 4/3 cameras with electronic finders, but they are not professional grade. Photographers don't do menus; forget the Sony NEX-7 and its flimsy plastic brethren that feel more cell phones than cameras, with their overpriced plastic zoom lenses and slow fixed lenses. I need a camera with real dials like the X-E2s and fast metal lenses, not a plastic toy.
● ISO 51,200 over the maximum ISO 25,600 of the old X-E2.
● There's a new Full Auto Scene Recognition mode that guesses what's in the picture, and sets everything up by itself.
● A new Motion Detection option increases the Auto ISO minimum shutter speed 1 or two stops as needed if the subject is moving.
● Slight cosmetic and button labeling changes (the grip is slightly different) with just a tiny bit of different internal hardware; it's still 95% the same camera as the old X-E2.
● An old X-E2 with the newest firmware will be very similar, except for motion detection and ISO 51,200.
● Fantastic ergonomics optimized for people who know how to shoot; a perfect shooter's camera with the right knobs in the right places.
● Exceptionally sharp and undistorted images, due to no anti-alias filter on the sensor and super-sharp lenses, just like LEICA.
● Extremely well built by today's standards. Unlike most of the disposable plastic (but expensive) cameras I review today, the X-E2s is a real camera: all-metal with engraved markings, and so are its lenses. It's better built than anything today from Nikon or Canon, and the same as LEICA — for a fraction of the price of any of them.
● Extraordinarily good auto white balance in crummy light, better than most DSLRs.
● Great highlight rendition; the Auto Dynamic Range feature really helps hold the highlights regardless of the conditions.
● No auto brightness control for the LCD or the electronic viewfinder, so neither gets as bright as you'd like for use in daylight, even set manually.
● There are three programmable Auto ISO settings, but there is no way to set the minimum shutter speed to track the focal length. It's only settable as fixed shutter speeds.
● No second card slot.
● There's no RGB histogram, but the X-E2s's fantastic highlight rendition means you don't need to watch for clipping individually in each channel as you do on other cameras. I don't use this on other cameras, but the X-E2s's blinking highlight option works just fine instead.
● There's usually no Program shift available most ways that you can set the camera, but that's not a problem, since all you need to do is flick the aperture or shutter dial instead.
● No PC (Prontor-Compur) flash sync terminal; use an adapter from the hot shoe. With studio strobes, I use the X-E2s's built-in flash as a trigger, no need for a cord.
Front lens mount, Fujifilm X-E2s. enlarge.
The X-E2s works only with Fuji's X-Mount Lenses.
There are a couple of off-brands like Zeiss that make a couple of lenses that work with it. Many of them have no autofocus.
The X-E2s can use LEICA and other brands of lenses cave-manually with a Lens Adapter, but I wouldn't use anything other than Fuji's XF lenses on my X-E2s.
When used with random lenses on an adapter, the XE2s has manually-set controls to correct distortion, color edge shading and falloff correction. Each corner's color shift set can be set individually for use with lenses like the 12mm Voigtländer.
Flange focal distance: 17.7mm.
Unique non-Bayer color array that eliminates the need for an anti-alias filter and yields much sharper images compared to other camera, but can limit what software can open the RAF raw files.
23.6 mm x 15.6 mm DX.
1.5294x crop factor.
1.5:1 aspect ratio.
4,896 x 3,264 pixels native.
Automatic internally-stitched panorama: L : 9600 x 2,160 or 1,440. M: 6,400 x 2,160 or 1,440.
L: (3:2, 16 MP) 4,896 x 3,264, (16:9) 4,896 x 2,760, (1:1) 3,264 x 3,264.
M: (3:2, 8 MP) 3,456 x 2,304, (16:9) 3,456 x 1,944, (1:1) 2,304 x 2,304.
S: (3:2, 4 MP) 2,496 x 1,664, (16:9) 2,496 x 1,408, (1:1) 1,664 x 1,664.
I love the square (1:1) crop!
Not only do I love shooting in the square, square icons grow to be much larger than rectangular icons in most image sorting and Finder applications.
ISO 200 ~ ISO 6,400 in Auto ISO as well as the manual ISO settings.
AUTO ISO allows one to set the top and bottom speeds, and the minimum shutter speed.
ISO 100, 12,800, 25,600 and 51,200 also available in manual ISO modes — but only when shooting JPG, not raw.
Three programmable Auto ISO presets, but no auto-setting of slowest shutter speed based on focal length; sets in fixed speeds only.
Dynamic Range Options
100%, 200%, 400%, or AUTO (100%~200%).
No Optical viewfinder.
2,360,000-dot color OLED.
25º apparent angle.
23 mm eye point.
-4 to +2 diopters.
Phase and/or contrast detection.
TTL off-the-sensor autofocus for zero AF error.
One AF area at a time, but you can move that area all over the frame.
AF Assist light.
256-zone matrix, spot or average.
Built-in pop-up flash: GN 5 meters, 16 feet, at ISO 100. (7 meters, 22 feet, at ISO 200).
Dedicated hot shoe.
Rated for up to 300V sync voltage.
No PC sync terminal.
Rated 1/180 sync, but I never saw the camera shoot above 1/140 with flash in daylight.
It supposedly allows multiple exposures; I never tried.
7 FPS (fast) and 3 FPS (slow).
3 FPS mode claims it can focus and change exposure between frames, while at 7 FPS it locks focus and exposure with the first frame.
1/4,000 ~ 1/4 second in PROGRAM modes.
1/4,000 to 30 seconds in Aperture and Shutter priority and Manual modes.
To one hour in Bulb mode.
2 or 10 second self timer/.
Maximum speed with flash (sync): Rated 1/180, but I never saw the camera shoot above 1/140 with flash in daylight.
Remote: Any standard screw-in cable release.
1,920 x 1,080 @ 59.94p or 29.97p. 14 minute maximum shot length.
1,280 x 720 @ @ 59.94p or 29.97p. 27 minute maximum shot length.
Uses the same film simulation, color and B&W modes as the still camera.
Built-in stereo mic.
2.5mm stereo mic input.
SD, SDHC or SDXC (UHS-1) slot.
Suggests class 10 or higher for movies.
HDMI mini connector.
No analog video out.
2.5mm stereo Mic/remote.
Infrastructure access mode only; only talks to Fuji's app and that's it.
Fuji NP W126 Battery.
Rated about 350 shots or 110 minutes of video shooting.
Fuji BC-W126 Charger.
Corded, uses common "∞" shaped plug end.
100~240V, 50-60 Hz.
Made in China by JET.
Rated 13~21 VA input, 8.4VDC 0.6A output.
Bottom, Fujifilm X-E2s. enlarge.
Made in Japan.
Die-cast magnesium top and bottom covers.
32 ~ 104°F (0 ~ 40°C).
10 ~ 80% RH, no condensation.
5.1 x 2.9 x 1.5 inches WHD.
129 x 74.9 x 37.2 millimeters WHD.
(Minimum depth: 30.9 mm/ 1.2 in.)
(X-Pro1 is 5.5 x 3.2 x 1.7 inches WHD, 139.5 x 81.8 x 42.5 millimeters WHD, Minimum depth: 1.3 inches (34.1 mm).)
12.145 oz. (344.3g) with battery and card.
Fuji rates it as 12.35 oz. (350g) with battery and card, and 10.6 oz. (300g) stripped naked.
Black or silver.
Fujifilm X-E2s Digital Camera Body.
Li-Ion Battery NP-W126.
Battery Charger BC-W126.
Metal Strap Clip.
Clip Attaching Tool.
CD-ROM (Viewer software, RAW File Converter etc.).
Dedicated all-leather case BLC-XE1
Compatible with all Fujinon X Mount lenses
LEICA M Mount Adapter
Hand Grip HG-XE1
Three dedicated flash models to choose from depending on requirements (EF-X20, EF-20, EF-42)
Protector filters (PRF-39, PRF-52, PRF-58 and PRF-62)
Remote release RR-90
15 January 2016.
Prices, USA top
X-E2s body only: $799.95.
X-E2s and 18-55mm kit: $999.95.
Box, Fujifilm X-E2s. enlarge.
The X-E2s combines great handling and the exceptional construction quality of a real camera so rarely seen today with unusually sharp, well-exposed and in-focus images. Colors are great for people, but not to DSLR standards for professional nature and landscape use, at least if you use in-camera JPGs for your work as I do.
Autofocus works as well as we expect for a 2016 mirrorless camera.
The X-E2s's OLED electronic finder is bright, sharp and colorful. It's a great finder — except in daylight, where it can't get as bright as I'd like, even at its maximum +2 setting. The X-T2 and X-Pro2 get much brighter and have automatic brightness control, missing in the X-E2s.
The X-E2s has automatic eye-control, so the rear LCD or electronic finder come up automatically depending on how you're holding the camera.
If activated, the focus-distance bar graph hides the bottom of your image, and the histogram covers more of your image.
The switchable level and grids are very helpful in getting level shots.
The image never fills the screen; there is always some blank space on top and bottom.
Oddly there's no big "0" on the compensation scale, so it's never very clear if exposure compensation is set or not.
The pop-up flash is cute, but feels as if it will break quickly.
It springs up instantly when you press the Bolt button, and snaps back down when you press it back into the camera.
Sadly, the slow sync speed (1/140 max in actual shooting) prevents the tiny flash from being useful in daylight for flash fill.
Indoors, it usually exposes quite well.
It's too weak to be likely to be useful, but you can push and hold its springed cantilever a bit to bounce it vertically.
All in all, the built-in flash isn't as good as the X100T, whose leaf shutter allows its tiny flash to do much more, but it does expose better than most DSLRs for indoor fill.
The shutter is quieter than a DSLR, and noisier than the silent leaf of the X100T.
I love having a real cable release socket.
Having real metal dials for everything puts this Fuji in LEICA territory, far above today's slop from Nikon, Canon and everyone else.
The grip feels swell in my hands. This tiny camera always feels stable.
The status LED is invisible on the right side of the camera away from the finder.
The exposure compensation knob still needs a deeper detent at zero, or a lock button.
The PLAY button is on the wrong (left) side of the camera, requiring a second hand to press it. It's also the wrong color: white, not blue or another color as we expect for play (versus shooting) functions.
The Q button is too far away to hit easily as my X-E2s is held to my eye.
The AFL and AEL buttons get hit accidentally as I grab the rear grip, but that's never a problem while shooting.
Image and Color
The Color Saturation setting only goes to ±2, not ±4 as in some other Fuji cameras.
The Velvia mode works much better than in earlier cameras; most of my samples are shot this way, and with +2 Color Saturation.
If you want a different color balance, you may be able to get a vivid look in raw software, but honestly, if it's vivid colors you demand, shoot a different camera. The X-E2s excels for people and B&W photography, but for me, not for vivid images of nature and things.
The unique sensor design gives super-sharp JPGs as shot, but also means that your favorite software might be less likely to be able to open the X-E2s's RAF raw files.
Auto White Balance is usually superb, even in the nastiest of artificial light.
High ISOs look great, cleaner than most other cameras with this sized sensor.
Solano's Patio, La Quinta, 03 November 2016. Fuji X-E2s, Fuji XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 at 37.4mm at f/3.6 hand-held at 1/27 at Auto ISO 6,400, Perfectly Clear. bigger or camera-original JPG file to explore on your computer.
Solano's, La Quinta, 03 November 2016. Fuji X-E2s, Fuji XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 at 32.9mm at f/3.6 hand-held at 1/15 of a second at Auto ISO 4,000, Perfectly Clear. bigger or camera-original JPG file to explore on your computer.
Old Town La Quinta under Moonlight, 03 November 2016. Fuji X-E2s, Fuji XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 at 42.5mm at f/4 hand-held at 1/7 of a second at Auto ISO 6,400, Perfectly Clear. bigger or camera-original JPG file to explore on your computer.
Metering and Exposure
Ahhh, it's almost always perfect, far better than DSLRs.
The PLAY button is right below the eyepiece, so expect to poke yourself in the the eye a few times until you learn to press PLAY before you bring your eye to the finder.
The zoom controls are right under your eyeball when you use the finder for playback. Worse, the PLAY button is also on the wrong side of the XE2s, demanding a second hand to hit PLAY.
There is no diagonal scrolling, and scrolling is slower than I'd like.
You can zoom from the detailed info page. The image then fills most of the screen with blank bar at the bottom; you can't read sectional histograms as zoomed.
Advancing among images goes super-fast, but just like on Canon, it will take a moment to redraw with full detail.
The X-E2s isn't smart enough to rotate playback images as you rotate the camera.
The only real face recognition in the X-E2s is for zooming into faces on playback.
The images take a moment to get sharp when swapped; it takes a moment to read all the data.
You can set the first four characters of the file name as you like. I set mine to "XE2S."
SD cards don't format properly. They remain as "Untitled," not "FUJI XE2s" as they should.
Default DPI is 72.
Auto-set ISO reads correctly in Media Pro, my favorite sorting tool.
NORMAL LARGE JPGs are about 3MB. They'll vary from 2MB ~ 4MB depending on the level of contrast and detail.
LARGE NORMAL (square) JPGs are about 2 MB.
NORMAL MEDIUM JPGs are about 1.9 MB.
RAF raw files are 26.1 MB.
I didn't try any video clips; I'm a photographic artist.
I do like that the X-E2s has a built-in stereo microphone.
Versus the Fuji X-Pro2
The X-Pro2 is a big, fat whale compared to the X-E2s, and has no built-in flash. Why would I want an X-Pro2?
The XPro-2 has an optical finder, too, but I don't see much point when used with interchangeable lenses for which the optical finder magnification is rarely ideal.
Versus the Fuji X100T
My Fuji X100T has an superb fixed, fast lens and a much quieter leaf shutter which allows the flash to sync all the way up to its top speed, letting the built-in flash provide great daylight fill.
DSLRs excel for action and sports because they focus, and track focus, much faster.
DSLRs excel for nature and landscape photography because Nikon and Canon DSLRs have more brilliant color rendition better suited for these subjects, at least as in-camera JPGs. Fujis are optimized for people pictures.
DSLRs are bigger and clumsier.
Ultimately you need both: A Fuji for people, family and travel photos, and a DSLR for serious use.
See also Mirrorless vs. DSLR cameras.
Push-in the top rear dial to zoom in on the focus point.
Forget the manual focus ring. Instead, tap the AEL/AFL button for spot manual focus in manual focus mode.
Shift the exposure program with the rear left-fight control buttons — except that it won't shift in Auto ISO or Auto Dynamic Range and other modes!
Exposure always seems to lock with the shutter halfway down, and I couldn't unset that.
You can get depth-of-field preview if you set the Fn button to do it.
To set 1/3 stop manual speeds: press the rear left-fight control buttons.
"B" is the usual Bulb mode, but "T" isn't Time mode. T really ought to be marked "LT," for Long Time. Use the T setting and the rear left-right buttons to set exposure times between 1/2 and 30 seconds. Use Bulb for times up to an hour.
Once set, the time you selected in T is recalled each time you select it, until power off resets it back to 1/2.
If set to Bulb in A mode, gives 30s.
P goes to 1/4s, A mode goes to to 30s.
Bulb counts up, in the finder or rear LCD, to 60 minutes.
If you're in the middle of a long exposure in the Auto or timed manual modes, turning off the camera won't stop it — the X-E2s will dutifully keep on with its long exposure until it's done!
I prefer to set JPG NORMAL, not HIGH.
I set Color +2 High, which is still pretty tame. I set the Velvia film mode for photos things. I try to set Standard for people photos.
I set AUTO ISO 6,400. The X-E2s looks great at ISO 6,400 — far better than a blurry picture will.
I set Auto Dynamic Range (AUTO DR). Set this way, the X-E2s increases ISO as needed (to ISO 800 even in daylight) to reduce on-sensor exposure to retain highlight detail, all automatically as needed. it's a huge benefit; be sure to turn it on to AUTO.
I set my Fn button to image size. This is how I select rectangular or square images from shot to shot.
Panoramas are set in the drive mode menu; press DRIVE to see them.
These are hidden next to Panoramas in the drive mode menu; press DRIVE to see them.
There are two Fn buttons: one on top near the shutter, and a second Fn2 on the rear lower left.
To set what an Fn button does, hold it down for a moment.
Custom settings just save and recall image settings, not camera settings.
To find or set the PLAY menu, you have to be playing an image when you press MENU.
I'd pass on this foolishness.
Fujinon's lenses are extraordinary, and they also have full focus and exposure and diaphragm automation, all lost if you waste time adapting LEICA lenses or others to the X-E2s.
I use the LEICA strap, but watch for the plastic gizmos that integrate so well with LEICA cameras that can mar the X-E2s's finish. I use electrical tape to protect my X-E2s.
More diligent people will use Fuji's provided strap lugs, tools and protectors.
This ad-free website's biggest source of support is when you use those or any of these links to approved sources when you get anything, regardless of the country in which you live. Fuji does not seal its boxes, so never buy at retail or any source not on my personally approved list since you'll have no way of knowing if you're missing accessories, getting a defective or damaged customer return or a used product. Buy only from the approved sources I use myself for the best prices, service, return policies and selection.
The X-E2s is an excellent camera for people photos and for people who want a lightweight camera that performs as well or better than DSLRs for some kinds of use. Its color rendition for people is superb, but not to pro standards for nature and landscape snaps unless you feel like shooting raw or tweaking colors afterwards. The X-E2s has far better color than the LEICA M9, but that's not saying much.
The X-E2s is my favorite interchangeable-lens Fuji camera, regardless of price. Go for it!
Thanks for helping me help you!
I'd get the kit with the superb XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 lens, which is made of metal and a stop faster than other 18-55mm kit lenses. The Fuji 18-55mm is a great product; don't discount it.
Before you go hog-wild and buy a slew of lenses, ask yourself why are you buying the X-E2s in the first place? Isn't it to simplify things? If you're going to spend a mint on a set of fixed prime Fuji lenses, you may as well just buy any DSLR and get even better results. The Fuji is all about small size, high price and good enough technical performance; Nikon and Canon DSLRs give better results for less money, but are usually bigger.
DO NOT USE ANY OTHER BRANDS OF LENSES, ESPECIALLY LEICA, ON ADAPTERS.
You can't get better than Fuji's lenses, and other lenses, even awesome LEICA lenses, won't autofocus or open and close their diaphragms for you as you shoot and focus.
With other lenses, manual focus might not be that much of a problem, but you'll have to open and close the aperture by hand every time you want to focus or shoot or focus. Forget other lenses, they are a pain. LEICA's 35mm f/1.4 ASPH FLE isn't better than Fuji's 35mm f/1.4, for instance.
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16 November 2016