24MP APS-C, 8 FPS, ISO 51,200 (2017-)
This ad-free website's biggest source of support is when you use those or any of these links to my personally-approved sources when you get anything, regardless of the country in which you live. Fuji does not seal its boxes in any way, so never buy at retail or any other source not on my personally approved list since you'll have no way of knowing if you're missing accessories, getting a defective, damaged, returned, store demo or used camera. Buy only from the approved sources I use myself for the best prices, service, return policies and selection. Thanks for helping me help you! Ken.
Fuji X100F. bigger.
Fuji X100F. bigger.
Fuji X100 (2010-2013)
Fuji X100S (2013-2014)
Fuji X100T (2014-2017)
(more at High ISOs)
Ryan shows me his friend Roberto on FaceTime on his Apple Watch, 09 April 2017. Of course Ryan is kidding as usual; the Apple Watch still lacks a camera. In this case, Ryan put up a photo of Roberto and told me he was on FaceTime. (Fuji X100F, flash ON, f/2 at 1/60 at Auto ISO 500, Perfectly Clear). bigger.
World's Best Skin Tones
The EVF lets me see through the lens as I compose, for zero compostional error compared to an optical (off-axis) finder.
Lockheed F-104 Starfighter, Palm Springs Air Museum. (Fuji X100F, no flash, manually set f/16 at automatically-set 1/180 at Auto ISO 400, Auto Dynamic Range chose 200%, Perfectly Clear. In other words, everything was on Auto and all I did for deep depth-of-field was move the aperture ring one click from A to f/16). bigger or camera-original © JPG.
The Fuji X100F is the world's best compact camera for people and family photos because of its superior skin tones and superior built-in flash that controls any harsh light, day or night.
Its fill-flash performance is superior to any interchangeable-lens camera because it uses a nearly silent leaf shutter which synchronizes all speeds up to 1/4,000, allowing the built-in flash to have far more range than with the 20-times-slower sync speeds of focal plane shutters of interchangeable-lens cameras.
The X100F also has a selectable, completely silent electronic shutter. The completely silent electronic shutter goes to 1/32,768 — but flash only works with the leaf shutter. The X100F has a Mechanical + Electronic Shutter Mode which swaps seamlessly between them as needed for speeds above 1/4,000.
The X100F is crafted of all metal to the same or better standards as a LEICA. The X100F is a jewel of precision, not a plastic turd like most cameras today.
The X100F is smaller than an interchangeable-lens camera, and most importantly already comes with the one superior, fast, all-purpose lens you need: the extraordinary FUJINON 23mm f/2 ASPH with the same sharpness and better bokeh than the LEICA SUMMICRON-M 35mm f/2 ASPH.
The X100F has a dual optical and electronic finder (EVF). The front lever lets you swap between these, and even crazier, you have the option of putting a small, live, electronic focus-assist window in the corner when using the optical finder! This innovation leaves LEICA back in the 1950s.
The X100F's fast face recognition lets it select autofocus points magically as you shoot from any position, so even though it sports a new AF point selection nubbin, you don't need it: just point and shoot!
Fuji's image sensors are unique in using a special pixel arrangement that eliminates sharpness-robbing anti-alias filters, and genuinely leads to sharper pixel-to-pixel images than Sony, Nikon, LEICA and other camera sensors using a traditional pixel layout. The disadvantage is that not many software programs can decode the raw files from Fuji cameras.
The X100F is the 2017 version of 2014's superb X100T. It's the same great camera with tweaks to many details. It looks, feels and shoots just like the X100T; it's just many small details that have changed:
● 24 MP sensor, up from 16 MP.
● Front control dial.
● Rear buttons all moved to the right side, or at least reachable with the right thumb, for one-handed shooting.
● "Digital Teleconverter" mode lets me turn the lens ring with the shutter unpressed for 50mm- and 70mm-equivalant angles of view. It's smart enough that the smaller resolution settings work with no loss of sharpness or resolution— exactly as if you had 35mm, 50mm and 70mm lenses on a LEICA. With the shutter half-pressed, this same ring gives manual focus.
● ISO dial inside the shutter-speed dial, just like 1970s SLRs. Lift the shutter dial and turn to set ISO.
● Thumb nubbin AF-point selector, called a "focus lever" by Fuji.
● "C" position on the exposure compensation dial covers ±5 stops with the front command dial in case the directly selected ±3 stop range of the dial clicks isn't enough.
● Silent electronic shutter now can expose as long as 30 seconds, up from 1 second in X100T. It also works from ISO 200 ~ 12,800, up from ISO 200 ~ 6,400 in the X100T. Neither of these electronic shutters work at ISO 100 and neither works with flash; you have to use the nearly silent leaf shutter for that.
● 8 FPS versus 6 FPS of X100T, but still only in a goofy locked-focus and exposure mode.
● 60 frame buffer at 8 FPS versus 25 frame buffer at 6 FPS of X100T in JPG; similar gains in raw.
● The AF illuminator LED is now behind a small window in the top cover to make this camera look more like a LEICA's classic optomechanical rangefinder system.
● ACROS B&W film simulation mode, in addition to the usual B&W modes. Both these have three additional options to simulate the use of a Yellow, Green or Red filter.
● Anti-scratch tape on the body near the strap lugs.
● WiFi for use with Fuji's app for transferring images and controlling the X100F remotely.
● Changed, but still no real improvement in Fuji's obtuse menu structure. For instance, Format Card is hidden at Menu > Wrench > User Setting > Format.
● No easy way to select between ISO 25,600 and ISO 51,200. You have to program the H setting of the ISO dial to be one or the other at Menu > Wrench > Button/Dial Setting > ISO Dial Setting (H) > (set 25,600 or 51,200).
Nothing serious, just fluff I don't need:
● No GPS.
● No flip screen.
● No 4K video.
● No headphone jack, but does have a 2.5mm Mic In jack.
Fixed-lens digital camera.
Completely silent electronic shutter and/or nearly silent electronically-controlled mechanical leaf shutter.
Optical and electronic viewfinders, and a rear LCD, any of which may be used for shooting and for playback.
Die-cast magnesium top and bottom body plates.
"X-Processor Pro high-speed image processing engine."
Fuji X100F. bigger.
Permanently attached, fixed 23mm f/2 lens.
Reversed (male) 49 x 0.75mm filter thread; demands an adapter to use regular filters.
3-stop (8x or 0.9 D log10) ND filter.
Sees the same angle-of-view with the X100F's sensor as a 35mm lens sees with a full-frame sensor or on 35mm film.
The lens moves in and out several millimeters inside the outer barrel to focus.
DSP compensates for diffraction at small apertures.
Fujinon 23mm f/2 ASPH. huge. Light comes from left, sensor on right.
Fujinon 23mm f/2 ASPH. bigger. Light comes from left, sensor on right.
The sixth element is a glass-molded aspheric with two aspherical surfaces.
One convex element is made of high refractive glass.
HT-EBC Super EBC (Electron-Beam Coated) multi coating.
Except for the aspherical element, this FUJINON seems like an homage to the world's first high-speed wide angle lens, the Nikon W-NIKKOR•C 35mm f/1.8 of 1957, right down to the 9-bladed diaphragm and the same extra-large rear element:
Nikon W-NIKKOR•C 35mm f/1.8 (1957-) and its internal diagram. click to enlarge.
This 23mm lens sees the same angle-of-view on this camera's sensor as a 35mm lens sees on a 35mm or full-frame camera.
4" (10 cm).
See also Macro.
Third-stop clicks via the aperture ring
Stops down to f/16.
The plastic bayonet hood is
Contrast detection and phase detection.
13 × 7 (91) AF point array, claimed up to 325 AF points.
The center 40% of the image has 49 focus points and is also covered with phase detection AF pixels.
Rated down to EV -3.
LED AF illuminator.
Single and Continuous modes.
24 MP "X-Trans CMOS III."
15.6 × 23.6mm "APS-C."
1.5:1 aspect ratio.
1.52× crop factor.
Sets on top dial: lift shutter speed dial collar and turn.
Still image ISO
Auto and ISO 200 ~ 12,800.
Also sets to ISO 100 (L), ISO 25,600 (H) and ISO 51,200 (H) in push and pull modes. One must go into the menus to assigned only one of ISO 25,600 or ISO 51,200 to the H position on the dial.
Only ISO 200 ~ 12,800 with the electroinc shutter; use the regular leaf (mechanical) shutter for the full range.
Auto and ISO 200 ~ 12,800, only.
Adjustable high and low limits from ISO 200 to ISO 12,800 in third stops.
Minimum shutter speeds adjustable from 1/4 to 1/30 in full stops, and in third stops to 1/500 for still photos.
THere's no option to track the zoom setting becaue the lens doesn't zoom.
Automatic (scene recognition).
Fluorescent (Daylight, Warm White, Cool White).
Custom (gray card).
Still Image Formats & Sizes
JPG and/or RAF raw.
sRGB or Adobe RGB color spaces.
Full Gate Images Sizes
6,000 x 4,000 native LARGE (24MP).
4,240 x 2,832 MEDIUM (12MP).
3,008 x 2,000 SMALL (6MP).
16:9 crop image sizes
6,000 x 3,376 LARGE (20MP).
4,240 x 2,384 MEDIUM (10MP).
3,008 x 1,688 SMALL. (5MP).
Square crop image sizes
4,000 x 4,000 LARGE (16MP).
2832 x 2832 MEDIUM (8MP).
2,000 x 2,000 SMALL (4MP).
Camerra held vertically
2,160 x 9,600 LARGE (21MP).
2,160 x 6,400 MEDIUM (14MP).
Camera held horizontally
9,600 x 1,440 LARGE (14MP).
6,400 x 1,440 MEDIUM (9MP).
14 bit RAF.
Uncompressed or losslessly compressed.
Resolutions & Frame Rates
1,920 × 1,080
59.94p, 50p, 29.97p, 25p, 24p or 23.98p.
14 minutes maximum take length.
1,280 × 720
59.94p, 50p, 29.97p, 25p, 24p or 23.98p.
27 minutes maximum take length.
.MOV file holding MPEG-4 AVC / H.264 video and 48 ksps linear PCM stereo audio.
Recorded only along with video.
Stereo microphones built in.
Mic-in jack with plug-in power overrides built-in mics.
The X100F has a brilliant finder system with one peephole that sees through either of an optical, electronic, or combined finder!
Framelines show about 92% coverage.
Framelines are very cleverly generated electronically to correct parralax and magnification, displayed using the EVF's LCD, and then optically composited to show as the framelines of the optical finder. Brilliant!
Electonic Finder (EVF)
-2 to +1 diopters.
Auto brightness control.
Selectable Leaf ("mechanical") and/or Electronic shutters.
The high frame rate options with the DRIVE button allow seletions of 3, 4, 5 or 8 FPS.
At 8 FPS: 60 frames JPG, 25 frames lossless raw, 23 frames uncompressed raw.
At 5 FPS: 68 frames JPG, 28 frames lossless raw, 25 frames uncompressed raw.
At 4 FPS: 73 frames JPG, 29 frames lossless raw, 25 frames uncompressed raw.
At 3 FPS: 81 frames JPG, 32 frames lossless raw, 27 frames uncompressed raw.
The leaf shutter is electronically timed. Fuji refers to it as the "mechanical shutter" to differentiate it from the electronic rolling shutter below.
1/4,000 top speed, but only from f/8 to f/16.
1/2,000 top speed, but only from f/4 to f/16.
1/1,000 top speed at all apertures.
As we expect from a leaf shutter, flash sync at all speeds (to 1/1,000 at all apertures, 1/2,000 f/4~f/16 and 1/4,000 f/8~f/16.)
1/4,000 to 4 seconds in Program mode.
1/4,000 to 1/4 second in Aperture-priority mode.
To 30 seconds in other modes, to 60 minutes (3,600 seconds) in Bulb.
"Time" (T) mode on dial is really only a way to set shutter speeds from 2 to 30 seconds.
Rated 100,000 shots.
Flash does not work with the electronic shutter.
The Electronic shutter is completely silent. It isn't a "flash" capture like the leaf shutter, it's effectively a rolling slit just like a focal plane, so pictures with motion may look bent.
1/32,768 top speed.
Fixed at 1s at Bulb setting.
30 seconds maximum time.
Mechanical + Electronic Shutter setting
This setting uses the mechanical shutter all the time, only working in electronic mode if the shutter speed needs to go above the current limit of the mechanical shutter.
Standard threaded cable release (mechanical and the best way).
Remote Release RR-90 (electrical).
Third-party 2.5mm remote controls (electrical).
2s or 10s.
Only found as a menu option and in the Quick Menu.
To stop, tap shutter halfway or hit DISP-BACK.
1 second to 24 hours.
Up to 999 frames.
Two-shot multiple exposure option. It can display the first shot on the LCD so you can check how it will blend with the second frame.
Sync speed: syncs at any speed up to 1/4,000 with mechanical shutter.
First or second shutter sync (there are no curtains; it's a leaf shutter).
Works only with mechaincal (leaf) shutter and only in Still Image Drive Mode.
Doesn't work at all with the electronic shutter.
Doesn't work at all at high frame rates (Continous Drive Mode).
GN 15'/4.6m at ISO 100.
Effective range 0.6~10' (0.2~3m) at ISO 200 (1.6~29.5' (0.3~9m) at ISO 1,600)
The hot shoe must be activated in a menu for use with non-Fuji flash.
Uses different contacts than Nikon, Canon or LEICA.
No PC sync terminal; use a hot-shoe adapter if you need one.
TTL (Auto on/off, Standard or SLOW sync).
±2 stop comensation adustment in TTL.
Manual power setting in full stops only from full power to 1/64 (-6 stops).
3" (75 mm) diagonal.
1,040,000 dot TFT.
1.5:1 aspect ratio.
Fixed; does not swivel.
No anti-reflection coating on the plastic cover.
Of course; all mirrolrss cameras always show Live View.
Fuji X100F. bigger.
2.5mm stereo mic jack, also works with RR-90 remote release.
Micro USB 2.0 for data and/or power.
Infrastructure Access mode, works with Fuji's app for geotagging, image transfer, remote camera control, PC Autosave and printing to Fuji's Instax instant printers.
One SD slot.
Takes up to 2GB SDHC, 32GB SDXC or 256GB UHS-I.
Fuji X100F. bigger.
Magnesium alloy top and bottom plates.
Plastic battery door.
Metal everything else.
Made in Japan.
It's marked on the bottom right rear of the camera, as well on the certification sticker hidden inside the connector door.
Power & Battery
Fuji X100F. bigger.
Rated 270 shots with EVF, 390 with optical finder — or — about 80 minutes of video, with no face detecttion.
Fuji BC-W126 Charger.
Corded, uses common "∞" shaped plug end.
100~240V, 50-60 Hz.
Made in China by JET.
Rated 13~21 VA input, 8.4VDC 0.6A output.
2.94 × 4.98 × 2.06 inches HWD (1.26" minimum depth).
74.8 × 126.5 × 52.4 millimeters HWD (32.0mm minimum depth).
16.591 oz. (470.4 g) with battery and card, actual measured.
Rated 16.5 oz. (469g) with battery and card, 14.8 oz. (419g) stripped.
0 ~ 40º C (32 ~ 104º F).
10 to 80% RH, no condensation.
Fuji X100F and included metal lens cap bigger.
Li-ion battery NP-W126S.
Battery charger BC-W126.
Metal lens cap.
Metal strap clip and clip attaching tool.
19 January 2017.
Available SinceApril 2017.
$1,297, January-April 2017.
Fuji X100F. bigger.
I leave Fuji's included strap in the box for resale time.
I use the genuine MADE IN GERMANY LEICA strap. It's perfect for cameras this size. Sure, the German LEICA strap costs more than $2, but you'll be using it long after you've forgotten about this camera. I'm still unsing the same strap I had even before my first X100 arrived back in 2010!
Fuji also offers a GB-001 Wrist Strap if that's your thing.
I never use the fancy original metal Fuji cap. I leave it in my box for resale time.
In fact, I don't use any lens cap: I use an "Opticap," a bulletproof clear glass filter instead of a cap. I use the fantastic Hoya HD2 49mm protection filter. Not only is there no problem with ghosts, it really doesn't get dirty. Even if I put my thumb on it, no fingerprints stick! It's made of extra-tough glass, so I throw my X100F around and am always ready to shoot. I never have to futz with a lenscap like an amateur. I beat on this glass filter as if it's a cap — but it's a cap through which I can shoot.
Fuji sells a PRF-49S filter.
The X100F has a deliberately reversed thread so Fuji can get lazy people to pay $70 for the Fuji LH-X100 filter adapter and hood.
I'm cheap and resourceful, so I use an empty 49mm filter ring and mount the filter backwards to do the same thing:
Hoya HD2 UV 49mm filter and JB Camera Designs Made-in-USA half case.
The filter might fit backward without the empty 49mm spacer ring, but the empty ring adds space for the lens to move forward to focus at macro distances.
I took an old Tiffen 49mm UV filter and unscrewed the retaining ring. I took out the glass and saved it for later. I removed the X100F's front trim ring, screwed the empty 49mm Tiffen filter ring on backwards, screwed my 49mm Hoya HD2 filter backwards on top of the empty ring, and put the X100F's silver trim ring back on the reversed filter. Done.
Most people will prefer the $15 JJC Fuji X100 Filter Adapter and Hood instead. It's well made, dull black on the inside and silver on the outside to sort of match the X100F (these adapters also work on the X100, X100S and X100T). This adapter is well machined and works fine; I doubt Fuji's Fuji LH-X100 is any nicer.
The $8 EZPhoto X100S Adapter feels like junk by comparison; forget about it and splurge for the $15 JJC Adapter. The JJC comes in a nice box, the $8 EZPhoto Adapter comes in a plain white box, and is all black, not matching the camera. Worst, the EZPhoto Adapter feels rougher and grittier, especially when attaching either the filter adapter to the camera or the hood to the filter adapter.
Each works as well and is all metal and the same size and shape, but the hoods don't quite interchange between them. The filter adapters are useful for anyone lacking a spare empty 49mm filter ring, and each of the hoods bayonets the same way.
I don't bother with these. They block the built-in flash and optical finder.
If I wanted a hood, the all-metal JJC Fuji X100 Filter Adapter and Hood mentioned above does the same thing for $15.
I use the built-in flash all the time. It's wonderful.
I use no external flash. Why would I want to crud-up my camera with more junk I don't need? The built in flash is flawless.
If you must,
The EF-X20 is a tiny flash designed for the X100F. It takes 2 AAA cells with a guide number of 65'/20m.
The EF-20 is a small flash that takes 2-AA cells with a guide number of 65'/20m. If I got a flash for my X100F, I'd get this EF-20 since I prefer common AA cells to the puny AAAs.
The EF-42 is a huge DSLR flash that takes 4 AA cells with a guide number of 42m/137' and a zoom head. We don't need a zoom head with the X100T, I wouldn't put this thing on my X100F — but it will do a great job for heavy-duty daylight fill.
The EF-X500 is even bigger.
I don't ever use these; they don't do much and waste the whole point of the simplicty or a compact camera.
The WCL-X100 II only converts the lens to about a 28mm versus 35mm equivalanet; not enough to worry about.
The TCL-X100 II only converts the 35mm lens to 50mm equivalanet, not enough to worry about. Making this lens even sillier, tyhe X100F includes a digital converter that does a great job of giving the equivalant of 50mm and 70mm lenses — for free!
If y9ou do get either of these, advantages are that the camera should recognize them and draw the appropriate frame lines in the optical finder. The EVF of courese always shows what's going on regardless of attachments. Fuji also claims that the X100F automaticllay tries to correct for optical aberations when wither is attached.
I use a JB Camera Designs Made-in-USA half case, but I don't have one for the X100F yet — but it should be here any day.
I use a generic cut-to-fit screen protector.
Use any of them and simply cut it to fit and you're done.
In my case, I'm still working off a set of ten protectors I bought on close-out for the Palm Pilot of the 1990s. They don't go bad in storage.
Stereo Microphone MIC-ST1
For better audio for video.
Remote Release RR-90
I use a standard $10 threaded cable release.
I use no tripods. They went out with Kodachrome 200 back in 1986.
If I need a time exposure, I rest my X100T on a ledge.
If I do use a tripod, it's the lightest, simplest one I can find. Only someone wanting to sell you a tripod will tell you to buy an expensive one.
(for USA only)
Fuji USA Warranty Registration Paperwork. bigger.
US versions include two printed manuals, one in English y uno en español.
Most Importanyl, there should be two square sheets of coated (glossy) paper as shown above in the plastic bag with the manuals. Each mentions the USA specifically. Canada may also be mentioned.
If you don't have these, you got ripped off with a gray market version from another country. This is why I never buy anyplace other than from my personally approved sources. You just can't take the chance of buying elsewhere, especially at any retail store, because non-USA versions have no warranty in the USA, and you won't even be able to get firmware or service for it — even if you're willing to pay out-of-pocket for it when you need it!
If a gray market version saves you $300 it may be worth it, but for $200 or less saved I wouldn't risk it.
Get yours from the same places I do and you won't have a problem, but if you take the risk of getting yours elsewhere, be sure to check everything while you still can return it.
Autofocus is f
Just grab the rear focus ring at any time for instant manual-focus override.
Focus breathing is the image changing size as focused in and out. It's important to cinematographers because it looks funny if the image changes size as focus gets pulled back and forth between actors. If the lens does this, the image "breathes" by growing and contracting slightly as the dialog goes back and forth.
Bokeh, the feel or quality of out-of-focus areas as opposed to how far out of focus they are, is
Davis 6250 weather station, January 2017. bigger or camera-original © file to explore on your computer (mobile devices rarely display full resolutions images properly).
Coma, or sagittal coma flare, is often seen with fast normal to wide lenses as weird batwing shapes on bright points of light in the corners.
I see no coma in this lens, which is excellent.
The MMmm has no eyeblow; no air pumps in or out of the back of the lens as zoomed.
I've greatly exaggerated the falloff by shooting a gray field and placing these on a gray background:
There's no need for thin filters.
Go ahead and use your standard rotating polarizer and grad filters.
Don't use polarizers on ultrawide lenses; the sky's natural polarization will appear as dark bands.
60 FPS in all light
The changeable magnification of the electronic rangefinder, shown in a small window as EVF at the bottom right corner of the optical viewfinder, enhances accuracy when checking the focus. The Real Time Parallax** Correction function is applied to the focus area in addition to the guide frame to enable assured framing and focusing in the Manual Focus mode.
In the Electronic Rangefinder (ERF) mode, the EVF is displayed as a small window at the bottom right corner of the optical viewfinder to facilitate accurate focusing using Focus Peaking and Digital Split Image even in the OVF. The small EVF window can display 100% field of view as well as in 2.5x and 6x magnifications. You can also check exposure and white balance in the EVF window, making it the ultimate viewfinder that provides all the benefits of the EVF while shooting photos through the OVF, which offers zero time lag and crisp view.
High ISO Image Sample Files
Click any for the camera-original © files as above to explore on your computer; mobile devices rarely show the full resolution files properly:
These are 600 x 450 pixel crops. They will vary in size to fit your browser window; if they are about 6" (15cm) wide on your screen, the complete image would print at xx x xx" (xx x xx meters) at this same magnification.
Click any for the same camera-original © files as above to explore on your computer; mobile devices rarely show the full resolution files properly:
Auto ISO is
Auto White Balance is
There are no color fringes as shot on Brand cameras, which by default correct for any that may be there.
Kienzle Flieger Automat 800/2843, January 2017. Nikon D3300, 18-55mm AF VR-P at 55mm, f/9 at 1/320 at Auto ISO 100. bigger or camera-original © file to explore on your computer (mobile devices rarely display full resolution images properly).
600 x 400 pixel crop from above image. Nikon D3300, 18-55mm AF VR-P at 55mm, f/9 at 1/320 at Auto ISO 100. Camera-original © file to explore on your computer (mobile devices rarely display full resolution images properly).
1,200 x 900 pixel crop from above. bigger or camera-original © file to explore on your computer (mobile devices rarely display full resolution images properly).
If this crop is about 6" (15cm) wide on your screen, then the complete image printed at this same extreme magnification would be about 40 x 60" (1 x 1.5 meters). In this case, you're seeing the texture of the silver paint on the watch face.
Crop from above 36 MP image at 100%. If this is 6" wide on your screen, the complete image printed at this same magnification would be 75 x 50." (6 x 4 feet, or 2 x 1.25 meters!)
Hood Bayonet Mount
Gold ED Band
14 karat gold filled.
Section with focus lock buttons: plastic.
Section with focus distance window: plastic.
The collar doesn't come off the lens, but the foot does come off from the collar.
If you lose the foot, the collar's stub has a standard ¼″ × 20 tripod thread.
14 karat gold-filled debossed metal plate around focus distance window.
Plastic Seem like all metal!
Moisture Seal at Mount
Dull chromed metal.
Plastic zoom ring focal length markings molded as engraved and filled with paint.
Engraved and filled with paint on a little piece glued into a recess on the bottom of the tripod collar.
Laser engraved in black on bottom of barrel.
Noises When Shaken
Mild to moderate clunking.
The Quiet Mode
The only limitations are your skill as a photographer and the lenses you use.
As shown at High ISOs like all cameras, it's sharpest at the lowest ISOs.
Spherochromatism, also called "color bokeh" by laymen, can cause colored fringes on slightly out-of-focus highlights, usually seen as green fringes on backgrounds and magenta fringes on foregrounds.
It is an advanced form of chromatic aberration in a different dimension than lateral color. Spherochromatism is most commonly seen in fast lenses of moderate focal length when shooting contrasty items at full aperture. It goes away as stopped down.
The tripod collar is
Vibration Reduction (VR, a.k.a. Image Stabilization) is flawless.
It locks-down the hand-held image and lets me shoot at very slow speeds, eliminating any need for a tripod except for astronomical use.
Even in daylight it's very helpful as I can hand-hold water-blur shots or stop all the way down for depth of field.
I consider top LCDs a throwback to 35mm film days, and prefer cameras without these vestiges of days gone
It takes about to format a GB card.
Cards are formatted as "
JPG files are
They are tagged as xx DPI.
Format Card is hidden at Menu > Wrench > User Setting > Format.
Set the "C" position on the exposure compensation dial and use the front control dial to set compenstaio to ±5 stops.
Exposure Compensation Dial now has the Command Dial Position. Set the Dial to “C” position to enable exposure compensation adjustments with the Command Dial at the front of the camera body, and also expand the exposure compensation range to ±5 stops
Video * Use a card with SD Speed Class with Class 10 or higher
Sets on top dial: lift shutter speed dial collar and turn.
Lift the shutter dial and turn to set ISO.
Only ISO 200 ~ 12,800 with the electroinc shutter or movies; use the regular leaf (mechanical) shutter for the full range.
Set the ISO Dial to “A” and select “Command” in the ISO DIAL SETTING (A) in the camera menu, to enable quick ISO adjustments with the Command Dial at the front of the camera body within the range of regular sensitivity levels from ISO200 to ISO12800 in the increment of 1/3 stops.
Doesn't work at all with the electronic shutter.
Doesn't work at high frame rates (Continous Drive Mode), use Still Image Drive Mode.
This ad-free website's biggest source of support is when you use those or any of these links to approved sources when you get anything, regardless of the country in which you live. xx does not seal its boxes in any way, so never buy at retail or any other source not on my personally approved list since you'll have no way of knowing if you're missing accessories, getting a defective, damaged, returned, store demo or used camera. I use the stores I do because they ship from secure remote warehouses where no one gets to touch your new camera before you do. Buy only from the approved sources I use myself for the best prices, service, return policies and selection.
Thanks for helping me help you!
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I support my growing family through this website, as crazy as it might seem.
The biggest help is when you use any of these links when you get anything. It costs you nothing, and is this site's, and thus my family's, biggest source of support. These places always have the best prices and service, which is why I've used them since before this website existed. I recommend them all personally.
If you find this page as helpful as a book you might have had to buy or a workshop you may have had to take, feel free to help me continue helping everyone.
As this page is copyrighted and formally registered, it is unlawful to make copies, especially in the form of printouts for personal use. If you wish to make a printout for personal use, you are granted one-time permission only if you PayPal me $5.00 per printout or part thereof. Thank you!
Thanks for reading!
10, 18 April 2017, January 2017